#004 Forby Friday – How to save diesel
GCM upgrade law changes July 2018
GCM upgrade law changes implemented
As of the 1st of July 2018 Gross Combined Mass (GCM) upgrades on new vehicles by Second Stage Manufacturers (SSM) will no longer be allowed. Even if your not buying a new vehicle to do a GCM upgrade, as a hunter/camper there is a high chance it will affect you.
Essentially what was happening was Caravaners were buying brand new vehicles. Then upgrading the GCM, by having the vehicle’s suspension, brakes and chassis modified by an aftermarket company. This could then be mod plated by an engineer.
Official notification of the changes here.
Video chat about the GCM upgrade law changes
I recently had the opportunity to do an interview with Shauno from 4WD Action at the 4WD Supacentre Parkinson open night. We discussed the implications of the changes:
How does this affect you?
As with any changes to laws along with that comes administering those laws. That’s to say, they will police them.
This doesn’t mean they will only target Caravaners either. They will set-up a weight station (as they already do occasionally) and weigh most vehicles that come along the road. Regardless of whether your towing a trailer or not they will weigh your vehicle.
So it’s important that you understand your Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) limits and your GCM limits. As discussed previously it’s very easy to go over your GVM, once you start modifying your vehicle with accessories.
I recently went to the dump with my 2013 Toyota Hilux dual cab turbo diesel and weighed in at 2.44 ton. My GVM is 2.71 ton which means I’ve only got 270kg spare, not much at all.
What happens if your over?
If you get caught over GCM/GVM in Queensland you’ll receive a hefty fine and sent home.
I know of two people that were at the beginning of there Cape York trip from NSW with their campervans and both were sent home and received approximately $600 each in fines. They were to return home immediately.
What a way to ruin a holiday or a good hunt.
GCM upgrade law changes conclusion
Everything you add to your vehicle eats into your GVM. If your not paying attention you will quickly go over your GVM.
If your going to be loading up your ute or taking a quad, don’t risk it. Just get a trailer and be done with it. We all know someone with at least a small box trailer.
Don’t be caught out with the “she’ll be right” attitude, because it could easily ruin a good hunt. A lot of hunters plan massive trips that are only once a year. Don’t make your next trip bi-annual!
Perfect Hunting Trailer Axles
Trailer axles
Single trailer axle VS Tandem trailer axle
Single axle trailers have one axle with two wheels. Tandem axle trailers (also known a dual axle trailers) have two trailer axles with four wheels.
Some people will argue that single trailer axle is fine they are lighter and reduce maintenance because of less parts. They do cost less, they are easier to maneuver by hand and easier to maneuver in tight situations.
There are a few reasons I like tandem axles.
- They are a lot more stable when they aren’t attached to the vehicle. Less likely to tip up etc if you stand on the back or unintentionally put some weight on the back.
- If you break; an axle, a hub, a wheel or a spring sometimes you can run the trailer on one axle (be mindful you have halved your GTM) by removing the wheels of one axle (preferably the non-braked wheels).
- Better suspension set-up for off-road
- Tow better at high speeds
- Spread of load across the chassis
- A flat tyre has dramatic less affect
- Lower rated tyres (weight carrying ability)
- A lot less wear on the tyres
- Easier to learn to reverse
If your going to have a reasonable length trailer, a tandem axle is just common sense. As your spreading the load across the chassis which is important under heavy duty use like we do going out west.
With tandem axles it’s also harder to increase your draw-bar weight (you still need to need aware of it though).
Construction
It would be good at this point to point out to buy solid axles and not weld on hubs. Less points for breakages is a good thing, especially on corrugations along way from home.
Axle placement
Be mindful of your axle placement, there are lots of camper trailers out there with single axles placed to far back and this puts massive draw bar weight on your vehicle.
Draw bar weight is included in your GVM and excessive weight ruins the ride handling. At www.trailersauce.co.nz they recommend 75mm rear of centre.
Trailer axles recommendation
Tandem trailer axles are the way to go. I’ve spoken to quite a few hunters about their trailers. Only those with single axles have regretted not going tandem and would definitely go dual axle it if they did it again.
Next hunting trailer topics
Deck Material, Length and Width
Deciding on trailer Springs
Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories
Previous hunting trailer topic
Perfect Hunting Trailer Brakes
Trailer brakes – Drums vs Discs and Cable vs Hydraulic vs Electric
Trailer brakes
As mentioned before in the load limit post, I would not get electric trailer brakes because I’m limiting the use between vehicles. I know that my trailer will be used across many vehicles as most likely yours will too.
So that leaves us with an over-ride system of either mechanical (cable) or hydraulic. Both systems use the same coupling, but have a different unit mounted to the back.
Hydraulic trailer brakes
These are the same as those fitted to vehicles. There is a hydraulic cylinder fitted to the over-ride that sends fluid to the brake calipers. There is a reservoir on top of the main cylinder at the over-ride with excess fluid in case of leaks or fluid loss.
Well we all have that one mate, you know the one that breaks everything, is reckless and care-free. He is the guy that will stand on the draw-bar and break the reservoir.
Because we are going off-road there is always the chance of pinching a brake line or getting something caught and ripping it off. Unfortunately if damage occurs to a hydraulic brake system, there is little in the way of bush mechanics that could be done to resolve an issue to get them working again
Mechanical trailer brakes
have a simple steel cable that runs from the over-ride system to a lever on the calipers. It’s a basic system that is easy to understand. Which makes it easy to adjust the brakes on the trailer (which you need to do for different loads).
The steel cable is more exposed than hydraulic brake lines and is probably easier to damage. However, you could easily bush repair the steel cable with fencing wire to get you home with operating trailer brakes.
To run mechanical brakes you will need a coupling that has an over-ride option.
Brake type
Next consideration is drum or disc brakes.
Most people would consider drum brakes the most reliable. Most vehicle disc brakes actually have a drum park brake in the centre (this is the case for electric trailer brakes). To maintain drum brakes you need to remove the wheel and the outer drum (in some cases even just to inspect the brake pads).
If you look at boat trailers it’s likely that they are fitted with disc brakes. This is because they can quickly drain the water and reduce rusting (when used in salt water).
Disc brake pads can easily be inspected with out removing any parts and the brake pads can be replaced without removing the wheels.
Trailer brakes recommendation
Mechanical trailer brakes would be my choice due to the ease of repair and simplicity. I would definitely consider disc brakes easier to maintain and keep the mud and water out of.
Next topics
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect hunting trailer type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories
Previous topics
Trailer load limit
Trailer axles
Deck material, length and width
Deciding on trailer springs