Load developement basics

Photo of a case full of progressive powder loads ready to be fired for testing.

Before you even begin reloading you need to understand load developement. This is a method of developing a load that is optimised for your firearm. By stepping through the process, not only will you have a safe load for your firearm but it will be far superior in both accuracy and stability.

Audio version here.

Reloading priority number 1

Load developement is the the most important step in reloading. By ignoring load developement, you could potentially; damage your firearm and/or cause yourself an injury.

The advantage of load developement is you are going to optimise the round for your firearm and situation. This will mean you will have a more accurate and stable round then any factory manufactured option.

If you are considering reloading, load developement is your number 1 priority. If you don’t have time for this, then you shouldn’t be reloading.

Common reloading mistakes

I can personally testify of 2 friends that did not develop a load for their firearms and as a result both quit reloading.

In both cases the same mistake was made. They purchased the projectiles, powder and primers. Looked up the data for their stock and proceeded to reload the maximum recommended charge wait.

The first mate had nothing but dramas; grouping was worse than 150mm and all the cases were jamming the chamber after firing the round. The second mate was getting terrible groupings of about 100mm and then having issues resizing the cases afterward (as the cases had stretched).

The first mate has never revisited reloading.

The second mate came to me some time later with his issues. After asking if he had done his load developement he stated that he had. However, upon investigating his methods of load developement, it turned out he had not (only selecting the maximum charge weight from the chart).

He then did a proper load developement and has had fantastic results ever since.

If you want to have a pleasurable experience with reloading you need to do a load developement. Don’t take any short cuts, don’t waste your time or money thinking you can use someone else’s data.

Getting data off of Facebook is not load developement it’s a meme.

Why do your own load developement?

Every gun is different. Barrel length, twist rate, barrel material, barrel profile (thickness), land depth, crown shape, chamber size, bolt face, firing pin, tolerances, powder, primers, projectiles, cases and the list goes on. These factors all change the performance of a projectile.

The tools used to machine the chambers and barrels wear over time. This means there are micro differences even between firearms that may be considered the identical.

Are you shooting in an area with; high humidity, cold, hot, windy or wet? External factors of your environment can affect your bullet performance even for an identical firearm.

You need to work out your own load specifically for your firearm under your local conditions. Do not get your load developement from Facebook or somewhere else. You do not know what “load developement” means to them and their firearm is not yours.

A successful load developement will get you punching clovers!

How to do a load developement

Most powder and projectile manufacturers will provide the data required to assist in developing a load for your cartridge. ADI which would be the most popular and common powder used in Australia have this available on their website.

All you need to know is the powder, type and weight of projectile you would like to use (selecting the right projectile is a whole topic on its own and I wont touch on it here). Find the right powder and type of projectile from the list and record the details.

I’m going to use .223REM as the example, loaded with Sierra 55gr soft point boat tail (AKA Sierra Super Roo load #1365) and ADI 2206H.

It important to note you need to choose a seating depth before doing the load developement. As changing the seating depth, changes the pressures in the case and the end results. In this example I used ADI’s recommended length of 2.2 inches (this can be changed, but is a whole other topic) which will allow it to fit all magazines.

ADIs current recommendation is a minimum of 25.0gr and a maximum of 26.0gr of 2206H for a 55gr SP (as at the date writing of this blog). So to get a good range of loads to find something consistent I’m going to load in 0.2gr increments (for larger calibres I might load in 0.5gr depending on the recommended min/max). I will load up 5 rounds at each increment: 25.0gr, 25.2gr, 25.4gr, 25.6gr, 25.8gr and 26.0gr (aim for having between 6-8 different load weights spread evenly across the min/max range).

It’s really important to take your time and make sure every round has the same powder weight.

Once loaded up you will need to head to the Range (hopefully without wind) and fire the rounds on paper. Five rounds of the same weight at 1 target. Let the barrel cool and fire the next five and the next target.

This is why you don’t want to burden yourself with too small an increment as the length of time to cool the barrel and check the targets will take way to long (especially if you have to weight for ceasefires).

Check every case after firing. If you see a flattened primer stop! This means there is to much pressure in the case and you should not be using that weight of powder in your firearm.

Checking the load developement results

Now you have your rounds fired onto the targets it’s time to review the results. Typically you want to select the tightest group in the middle of a set of 3. You don’t want to select the “most powerful round before the primers flatten”.

What you want is the most stable load. The load that allows for the greatest variance with minimal change. That way if the powder drop is slightly more or slightly less than intended there is no change to the point of impact on the target.

Once you have found that perfect middle ground it’s time to load away!

Other concepts to consider for improving your groups (tighten your groups/accuracy) are:

  • Seating depth
  • Primer type
  • Consistant powder drops
  • Neck tension
  • Matched cases (identical cases)
  • Powder selection

For the purposes of hunting and saving money the above can be ignored, however selecting the seating depth is something I would definitely consider recommending from the start. But this is an introduction to people considering reloading and the seating depth is not a deal breaker, you’ll still out perform factory loads following this guide.

If you need more advise head over to the Australian Reloading Talk & Trade Facebook group.

Reloading – When to start

When should you consider reloading?
When should you consider reloading?
When is the right time to consider reloading?

Deciding if reloading is for you can be a difficult choice. I’ve come up with 5 reasons why you should consider reloading:

  1. Budget
  2. Competition
  3. Projectiles
  4. Precision/Accuracy
  5. Availability

Podcast version here.

We will take a look at these 5 reasons see if you think that you may be ready to start reloading. Because the biggest step is buying the reloading equipement at the start and ultimately how much you want to spend on this initial purchase.

Budget reloading

Now when I’m talking about budget reloading, I’m talking about saving money due to the quantity of ammunition required. I’m not talking per box of 20, we are talking more like 100 rounds plus.

So this might fit you if your doing tons of varmint shooting, roo shooting or heading down to the range regularly. It would be nothing for me to head out on a cull in western Queensland and use 300 rounds in 3 nights.

Anyone that says you can’t save money reloading has never crunched the number. In a future blog I’m going to show a couple of examples of just how much money can be saved.

If your shooting large quantities of the same type of round, then you should start reloading.

Competition reloading

There are a few shooting competitions that require specific types of ammunition to be used when competing. The 2 examples that I can think of off the top of my head is; F Class and Single Action/Cowboy shooting.

Now I can’t vouch for F Class as I’ve never been involved in it at this point. But I know that you need to use NRAA approved ammunition. They have limits on factory ammunition you can use and the projectiles and powders that can be hand loaded. Having limits on the factory ammunition you can use could cause you issues with availability, which we will talk about later.

However, I am involved in Cowboy shooting and there are SASS rules for ammunition. These include minimum and maximum powder chargers, must be a lead projectile and must have a minimum power factor of 60 (see the SASS shooters handbook for full details).

Now you can buy Cowboy loads but they are extremely expensive in some cases, which goes back to point 1 reloading for budget.

Projectiles

There are so many types of projectiles and every type of projectile has a different purpose. Different; weights, expansion rates, tips, partitions, materials and much more. Not all of these projectiles are available in factory loads.

photo of 4 different rounds sliced in half
Different projectiles have vastly different internals affecting what happens after impact.

Maybe there is a certain projectile that you want to use for a specific game, type of shooting or you’ve heard it has really good results in your type of firearm.

Sometimes these projectiles you would like to shoot can be very expensive to buy in factory rounds, once again back to budget. Then now would be the time to start reloading.

Precision/Accuracy reloading

If you are chasing improved accuracy or precision shooting, factory ammunition is not an option. Maybe your doing precision shooting or long range shooting up to or over 1,000 metres.

In my experience even the most basic reloading can have exceptional accuracy improvements. The reason for this is due to the fact that by going through the load development phase of reloading, you are optimizing the round for your firearm.

Factory rounds are constructed to to be a good middle range for all firearms, hence why people that shoot factory rounds will try several brands and types of rounds to find what shoots best in their firearm.

Precision and long range shooting is a whole other kettle of fish. These guys can go to extremes chasing the perfect result. Because of the different; barrel lengths, barrel contours, twist rates, calibers, powders, primers and projectiles there are never ending combinations. If your OCD, this is the perfect sport for you!

Why would OCD people love shooting? Well you get to;

  • weigh every grain of powder,
  • measure every case length,
  • drill every flash hole
  • weigh every projectile
  • check the eccentricity
  • measure overall length

and the list goes on (please note this is not required for basic reloading – this is extreme).

By reloading you are tailoring your round specifically to your firearm and the results will be amazing. If you are wanting to do precision shooting or just want to improve your firearms accuracy (reloading cannot fix poor shooting skills) than reloading is for you!

Availability

When I first purchased my Remington 7600 35 Whelen I was told I could readily get ammunition for it. True most gun shops had a box or two, but in order to get a 10-20% discount you need to buy a carton of 200 rounds.

When I went to get some rounds when the gun finally turned up between 3 stores that I regularly frequented at that time I could only get 1 from one store, 2 from a second and 2 from a third. So between 3 stores I could get 100 rounds at full price.

35 Whelen is not even a particularly rare cartridge. But what happens when you go west and run out and have to go to town to get some more rounds? You’ll probably be lucky if they have any stock. Not to mention it might not even be the same brand, which will require sighting in again.

So if you have an obscure cartridge or a wildcat cartridge that you are going to shoot a heap or regularly it’s probably a good idea to start reloading. Because otherwise consistency is going to be hard to achieve.

Conclusion

Look these are just a few quick dot points for reasons to start reloading, no doubt there are thousands of reasons to start reloading. But if your hands on, being doing the sport for a while, have some down time and tick the box for any of the above reasons. Go get yourself a basic reloading kit and get cracking!

Nothing but the endless pursuit of precision ahead!

Happy reloading,

Blingblingbob.