Reloading – When to start

When should you consider reloading?
When should you consider reloading?
When is the right time to consider reloading?

Deciding if reloading is for you can be a difficult choice. I’ve come up with 5 reasons why you should consider reloading:

  1. Budget
  2. Competition
  3. Projectiles
  4. Precision/Accuracy
  5. Availability

Podcast version here.

We will take a look at these 5 reasons see if you think that you may be ready to start reloading. Because the biggest step is buying the reloading equipement at the start and ultimately how much you want to spend on this initial purchase.

Budget reloading

Now when I’m talking about budget reloading, I’m talking about saving money due to the quantity of ammunition required. I’m not talking per box of 20, we are talking more like 100 rounds plus.

So this might fit you if your doing tons of varmint shooting, roo shooting or heading down to the range regularly. It would be nothing for me to head out on a cull in western Queensland and use 300 rounds in 3 nights.

Anyone that says you can’t save money reloading has never crunched the number. In a future blog I’m going to show a couple of examples of just how much money can be saved.

If your shooting large quantities of the same type of round, then you should start reloading.

Competition reloading

There are a few shooting competitions that require specific types of ammunition to be used when competing. The 2 examples that I can think of off the top of my head is; F Class and Single Action/Cowboy shooting.

Now I can’t vouch for F Class as I’ve never been involved in it at this point. But I know that you need to use NRAA approved ammunition. They have limits on factory ammunition you can use and the projectiles and powders that can be hand loaded. Having limits on the factory ammunition you can use could cause you issues with availability, which we will talk about later.

However, I am involved in Cowboy shooting and there are SASS rules for ammunition. These include minimum and maximum powder chargers, must be a lead projectile and must have a minimum power factor of 60 (see the SASS shooters handbook for full details).

Now you can buy Cowboy loads but they are extremely expensive in some cases, which goes back to point 1 reloading for budget.

Projectiles

There are so many types of projectiles and every type of projectile has a different purpose. Different; weights, expansion rates, tips, partitions, materials and much more. Not all of these projectiles are available in factory loads.

photo of 4 different rounds sliced in half
Different projectiles have vastly different internals affecting what happens after impact.

Maybe there is a certain projectile that you want to use for a specific game, type of shooting or you’ve heard it has really good results in your type of firearm.

Sometimes these projectiles you would like to shoot can be very expensive to buy in factory rounds, once again back to budget. Then now would be the time to start reloading.

Precision/Accuracy reloading

If you are chasing improved accuracy or precision shooting, factory ammunition is not an option. Maybe your doing precision shooting or long range shooting up to or over 1,000 metres.

In my experience even the most basic reloading can have exceptional accuracy improvements. The reason for this is due to the fact that by going through the load development phase of reloading, you are optimizing the round for your firearm.

Factory rounds are constructed to to be a good middle range for all firearms, hence why people that shoot factory rounds will try several brands and types of rounds to find what shoots best in their firearm.

Precision and long range shooting is a whole other kettle of fish. These guys can go to extremes chasing the perfect result. Because of the different; barrel lengths, barrel contours, twist rates, calibers, powders, primers and projectiles there are never ending combinations. If your OCD, this is the perfect sport for you!

Why would OCD people love shooting? Well you get to;

  • weigh every grain of powder,
  • measure every case length,
  • drill every flash hole
  • weigh every projectile
  • check the eccentricity
  • measure overall length

and the list goes on (please note this is not required for basic reloading – this is extreme).

By reloading you are tailoring your round specifically to your firearm and the results will be amazing. If you are wanting to do precision shooting or just want to improve your firearms accuracy (reloading cannot fix poor shooting skills) than reloading is for you!

Availability

When I first purchased my Remington 7600 35 Whelen I was told I could readily get ammunition for it. True most gun shops had a box or two, but in order to get a 10-20% discount you need to buy a carton of 200 rounds.

When I went to get some rounds when the gun finally turned up between 3 stores that I regularly frequented at that time I could only get 1 from one store, 2 from a second and 2 from a third. So between 3 stores I could get 100 rounds at full price.

35 Whelen is not even a particularly rare cartridge. But what happens when you go west and run out and have to go to town to get some more rounds? You’ll probably be lucky if they have any stock. Not to mention it might not even be the same brand, which will require sighting in again.

So if you have an obscure cartridge or a wildcat cartridge that you are going to shoot a heap or regularly it’s probably a good idea to start reloading. Because otherwise consistency is going to be hard to achieve.

Conclusion

Look these are just a few quick dot points for reasons to start reloading, no doubt there are thousands of reasons to start reloading. But if your hands on, being doing the sport for a while, have some down time and tick the box for any of the above reasons. Go get yourself a basic reloading kit and get cracking!

Nothing but the endless pursuit of precision ahead!

Happy reloading,

Blingblingbob.

GCM upgrade law changes July 2018

GCM upgrade law changes implemented

As of the 1st of July 2018 Gross Combined Mass (GCM) upgrades on new vehicles by Second Stage Manufacturers (SSM) will no longer be allowed. Even if your not buying a new vehicle to do a GCM upgrade, as a hunter/camper there is a high chance it will affect you.

Essentially what was happening was Caravaners were buying brand new vehicles. Then upgrading the GCM, by having the vehicle’s suspension, brakes and chassis modified by an aftermarket company. This could then be mod plated by an engineer.

Official notification of the changes here.

Video chat about the GCM upgrade law changes

I recently had the opportunity to do an interview with Shauno from 4WD Action at the 4WD Supacentre Parkinson open night. We discussed the implications of the changes:

How does this affect you?

As with any changes to laws along with that comes administering those laws. That’s to say, they will police them.

This doesn’t mean they will only target Caravaners either. They will set-up a weight station (as they already do occasionally) and weigh most vehicles that come along the road. Regardless of whether your towing a trailer or not they will weigh your vehicle.

So it’s important that you understand your Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) limits and your GCM limits. As discussed previously it’s very easy to go over your GVM, once you start modifying your vehicle with accessories.

Modified Hilux weight
Hilux with bullbar, brush bars, side steps, aluminum tray, long range tank, bash plates etc.

I recently went to the dump with my 2013 Toyota Hilux dual cab turbo diesel and weighed in at 2.44 ton. My GVM is 2.71 ton which means I’ve only got 270kg spare, not much at all.

What happens if your over?

If you get caught over GCM/GVM in Queensland you’ll receive a hefty fine and sent home.

I know of  two people that were at the beginning of there Cape York trip from NSW with their campervans and both were sent home and received approximately $600 each in fines. They were to return home immediately.

What a way to ruin a holiday or a good hunt.

GCM upgrade law changes conclusion

Everything you add to your vehicle eats into your GVM. If your not paying attention you will quickly go over your GVM.

If your going to be loading up your ute or taking a quad, don’t risk it. Just get a trailer and be done with it. We all know someone with at least a small box trailer.

Don’t be caught out with the “she’ll be right” attitude, because it could easily ruin a good hunt. A lot of hunters plan massive trips that are only once a year. Don’t make your next trip bi-annual!

Perfect Hunting Trailer Finish and Accessories

10x6 tandem box trailer covered in mud carrying a Polaris SxS

Let’s look at the trailer finish and trailer accessories that will improve it’s use. I’m not going to cover legal requirements such as lights and mud guards, please check your state regulations and ADR’s.

Trailer coatings

Galvanized vs painted.

Galvanizing a trailer will add an excessive amount of weight to a trailer. Galvanizing is a must for boat trailers or anyone living along the coast. The galvanizing does give you  a very strong protective coating. But as soon as you make any modification to the trailer (grinding or welding) the benefits start declining as zinc paint is not the same quality.

Powder coating a trailer is another good option. Just about every Hilux and Landcruiser steel tray is powder coated and you can see how well they last.

Trailer extras

Some extras to consider putting on your hunting trailer discussed below. Keep in mind that you want to keep your GTM as low as possible, so consider only adding what you need and not what you want (purpose of use).

photos of trailer stone guard and full length mudflaps
Can’t have too much stone protection, use a stone guard and full length mudflaps

Stone protection

A trailer behind a vehicle on a gravel road will just get sand blasted. Not only that, but projectiles bounce off the trailer and  onto the rear of the vehicle. Sometimes smashing rear windows or in our case covering the dogs in large chunks of mud lol.

This is why it’s important to have a stone guard on the trailer. On our last trip we lost the plastics off a two wheeler from getting smashed by gravel and mud for 300km.

As well as a stone guard you can use 3 semi-trailer truck mudflaps or a single piece of rubber across the back of your tow vehicle. This should significantly reduce the amount of projectiles coming from the rear of the vehicle.

photo of spare tyre under hilux tray
Hilux spare wheel carrier, cheap, keeps it out of the way and doesn’t add draw-bar weight

Spare wheel carrier

Consider putting at minimum 1 spare trailer wheel on the trailer. However, I think 2 spares is best on big trips. An easy option is on the draw bar, but you can always fit an under tray style spare wheel bracket like a Hilux one cheaply and this reduces draw-bar weight.

Fuel and water storage

when taking quad bikes etc. you can’t have to much fuel or water. Most 20L plastic fuel containers are 180mm (I personally own Pro Quip) allowing you to fit 10 in a row just in front of the head board on the draw bar. Once again be mindful of the draw bar weight when considering this.

Note: Fuel is about 75% the weight of water and diesel is about 83% (sourced from www.quora.com).

Recovery points

Is there a chance you may need to pull the trailer out backwards? Maybe a rear towbar or a pair of recovery points could be installed during the build.

photo of under tray tool box of trailer accessories storage
Under tray tool boxes, anywhere from 7kg each, plus however much junk you can fit.

Spares storage

Bearings, grease, dust caps, rags and tie downs should always be on board a good trailer. Under tray tool boxes would be a good option for storing this kind of stuff without increasing draw-bar weight.

Try not to buy one that hangs to low, especially if your using Ford Falcon trailer wheels.

Shock absorbers

This is more of an issue were you don’t want to bounce the contents of what’s on the back, such as a caravan or camper trailer. Also with load sharing roller rockers the axle movement can reduce some of this requirement. By not fitting them you are significantly reducing the overall build cost at no real gains.

Trailer plug

What’s standard for your state/region? What have your mates got? In the past Queenslanders always used a round 7, but this has been slowly changing to a flat 7. Adapters are available so it’s not a major issue, just have a look around before you choose.

Trailer sides

If your going to use the trailer for other activities this is something you may wish to install. But with the current tie-down laws it doesn’t have the benefits it used to and quads might not fit with them installed either.

If you do choose to install them make sure they are easily removable.

photo of trailer accessories spare wheel mount and jockey wheel
Old fashioned reliable trailer jockey wheel – never flat when you need it

Jockey wheel

Fitment of a jockey wheel to a large trailer is a must for usability. The bigger the wheel the easier it is to move on rough terrain. What I wouldn’t recommend is a pneumatic tyre (inflatable) guaranteed it’s flat every time you go to use it.

Trailer accessories and finish recommendation

To keep weight down, cost and ease of repair I would get my trailer painted. After that I would get these accessories:

  • Stone protection on trailer plus a full row of truck mudflaps on vehicle
  • 2 spare wheels mounted under the trailer with Hilux style spare wheel mounts
  • facility to hold 10 fuel/water containers across the draw-bar
  • 2 recovery points on the rear of the chassis for a recovery bridle
  • 2 under tray tool boxes for general storage
  • large diameter regular jockey wheel

Previous hunting trailer topics