HSO#012 Fourby Friday | Protect Your Diesel Injectors | Dan Gough

HSO#012 Fourby Friday | Protect Your Diesel Injectors | Dan Gough

Host and Guest

Dan Gough Diesel Trainer and shooter

Host: Rob Tratt – [email protected]

Guest: Dan Gough – [email protected]

Dan Gough Owner of Valhalla Industries (a Automotive Technical and Diagnostic Training company) and Redline EFI and Performance (his workshop) joins us for an awesome discussion on how to protect your diesel injectors, pump, suction control valve and engine. We talk about; fuel treatments, pre-filters, water traps and the best fuels amongst a whole lot of other important information.

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Time stamps

00:00:00 How to protect your diesel injectors
00:02:48 Intro
00:05:25 What kills diesels?
00:06:19 Good fuel
00:22:10 Fuel sensors
00:25:14 Diesel heating up in your tank – fuel coolers
00:30:59 Fuel filtration
00:34:52 Diesel pre-filters/secondary filters placement
00:43:33 Diesel bug
00:46:09 Fuel additives/fuel treatments/fuel savers – F10, BlueChem PowerMaxx, BG Premium 245 Diesel fuel system cleaner
00:55:03 Water damage – Diesel pump, injectors and suction control valve (SCV)
00:57:06 Pre-filter vs Post filter
01:05:04 Identifying diesel bug in your system
01:06:20 Dirty fuel damage
01:07:44 Keeping your tank full
01:10:03 Filters and filters – appropriate microns
01:18:38 Hose clamps/fuel fittings
01:26:21 Keep your workstation clean
01:27:27 Filling your new filter with fuel
01:28:18 Clean fuel = clean oil
01:31:23 Drain your water trap
01:37:17 The best diesel on the market
01:40:51 Burson Garage
01:47:06 Give away – Direction Plus catch-can and pre-filter from Burson Garage
01:49:14 Outro

Direction plus Diesel Pre-filter

Competition

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Links mentioned in show

Valhalla Industries
Redline EFI and Performance
Burson Garage

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Diesel pre-filter should you install one?

photo if an installed secondary pre-filter

There are 2 major engine mods recommended for turbo diesels; oil catch can and secondary diesel filters. Some will argue for a diesel pre-filter and others will argue for a diesel post-filter. We take a quick look at the difference between diesel pre-filters and post-filters. Then; why or when you should install one on your turbo diesel 4WD.

Secondary fuel filters

The purpose of a secondary filter is to remove more contaminates from your fuel system prior to the diesel going through the injectors. Modern common rail injectors have ultra fine tolerances. These can easily be clogged and cost thousands to replace.

You will read tons of articles telling you not to buy a 2005 to 2009 Toyota Hilux because of “known” injector issues. However the reality this was not exclusively a Hilux issue. Toyota Hilux had the largest market share of 4×4 utes during that period of time. Therefore, more vehicles affected by the issue in general. Talk to any mechanic that services multiple makes of utes and they will tell you they have repaired all brands with injector issues.

One of the solutions to the issue was to install a secondary fuel filter. This removes a greater amount of contaminants from the system. It does this by adding a second fuel filter to the system. But removes different sized particles to the factory system.

Another benefit of a secondary diesel filter is it removes the water from the fuel into a visible bowl. This doubles up with the factory filter that also removes water. But the factory filter only has a sensor on the dash and no visible water level.

Why should you install one?

If you have a new turbo diesel that’s serviced regularly and use a reliable fuel station that supplies clean good diesel than you probably don’t need one.

If however you travel heaps and go to remote servos that look dodgy as, then you probably do. Fuel stations with old tanks are of course more likely to have contaminates. Fuel stations using unreliable fuel sources are more likely to have contaminates.

10x6 box trailer with dual axels and 4x4 offroad tyres and wheels
Tandem trailer with 4×4 off-road trailer wheels

The other scenario is if your using jerrycans. Anyone transporting and using fuel containers are putting themselves at risk. As they increase the chance of introducing contaminates into their diesel. It doesn’t matter how careful you are something can always goes wrong. Dropping the end of the siphoning hose in the dirt. Dirt falling off the lid into the fuel container. Dropping the fuel container cap. The fuel container slips from your hands. Of course there is always that one mate. The guy that has to help but he is nothing but a pain in the neck…

Fuel cans are great and when your travelling that far, you cant avoid them. Should you be scared of them? No way, this is why we have fuel filters and water separators in our vehicles. But this is exactly why you should have a secondary filter for these “just in case” reasons.

Secondary fuel filters are relatively cheap for the protection they provide. If you go out west get one!

photo of a hunting trailer behind a ute ready for a big trip
Adding a trailer will increase fuel consumption

Fuel consumption

If your loading up your vehicle or towing your going to use a lot more diesel. Therefore a lot more fuel passes through the filter for the same distance.

With my Hilux I typically get 70% of the distance under full load than I do unloaded. This means that the filter is filtering 50% more diesel than normal. If you did this for 10,000km, you have effectively put your filtration system through 15,000km equivalent of fuel (I’m not going to bore you with the mathematical details). So how do you ensure your filter is still up to the task without having to service it sooner?

Photo of a factory denso filter fitted to a hilux
Factory Toyota Hilux filter by Denso 4-5 microns

Factory diesel filter

On a Toyota Hilux KUN26R (2009-2015) the factory filter is approximately 4-5 microns. Its manufactured by Denso who also make the factory injectors.

One would safely assume that the factory filter would filter the diesel enough for the factory injectors. So there would never to be an issue if regular maintenance is carried out.

Diesel post-filter

The post-filter is a secondary filter that is fitted after the factor filter (between the factory filter and injectors). Post-filters are a finer filter than the factory filter generally 2 micron vs factory 5 micron.

There are videos on YouTube proving that a 2 micron filter can flow more than enough to not disrupt your fuel system. It “proves” this by showing the amount of diesel returning to the tank and the vacuum levels.

photo of a post-filter test setup in a workshop
Post-filter test conditions are “perfect” and not “on-road” testing over thousands of kilometers with varying fuel sources

I have an issue with these tests, because they are conducted in a “perfect” scenario; clean fuel and new filters. Not with fuel from a contaminated source, which is the whole point of a secondary filtration system.

What happens at 9,000km (after the last service)? After filling up at several dodgy fuel stations under full load (using 50% more fuel), when the filters are close to needing replacement? Could the 2 micron filter could start to clog and not allow enough diesel to pass through the system?

What’s the purpose of filtering to 2 microns if the system can handle up to  5 microns? I feel your unnecessarily putting your fuel system at risk. By refining the fuel to a level beyond necessary.

Using a post-filter as a secondary filter also means the factory filter is doing all the primary water separation. But the factory filter does not have a visible water catch bowl unlike a secondary filter. So you are relying on the vehicle fuel sensors to report the water level to you (after it’s to high).

The factory filter contains sensors that go to the computer and light up the dash. By installing equipment between the factory filter and injectors, there is a chance you can upset the factory settings. This could upset the system warnings  and ruin your engine.

photo if an installed secondary diesel pre-filter
Provent diesel pre-filter kit installed in a Toyota Hilux

Diesel pre-filter

A diesel pre-filter is a filter that is between your fuel tank and factory fuel filter. Pre-filters are a courser filter than the factory filter. Generally a 30 micron pre-filter vs 5 micron factory filter. It also separates the water from the diesel prior to getting to the factory filter.

The diesel pre-filter removes any large particles before they hit your factory filter. This means your factory filter is only filtering particles between 30 and 5 microns, thus removing a load off the factory filtration system.

When the vehicle is under load or heavy towing and your consuming the 50% extra fuel. By using a secondary diesel pre-filter, this should extend the life span of the factory filter. Especially during these scenarios (you should still replace the filters as per the factory recommendations).

By using a pre-filter as the secondary filter also allows the pre-filter to do the primary water separation. This is great as the diesel pre-filter has a clear bowl. So you can see when water is collected. Then you can empty it as soon as possible, before it causes an issue.

Is a diesel pre-filter a DIY job?

Most definitely, the diesel pre-filter kits from Direction Plus are extremely easy to install. If you can install an oil catch can, you can install the secondary diesel pre-filter. I recently installed under tray tool boxes and this was a much more difficult task.

Check the video below to see how simple the install is:

Diesel pre-filter conclusion

If your taking your vehicle to remote areas with unreliable fuel sources. Maybe your using jerrycans to supplement your fuel requirements. Are you loading your vehicle to maximum GVM or towing, causing an increase in fuel consumption? Then you need a secondary filtration system.

I chose a secondary Direction Plus diesel pre-filter kit because of the below:

  • They remove the large contaminates allowing the factory filter to filter finer particles for longer (essentially halving the work of the factory filter).
  • Diesel pre-filters do the primary water separation and use a clear bowl for easy identification.
  • They are fitted before the ECU sensors, allowing engine warnings to operate as per normal.
  • They allow fitting of a secondary battery.

 

Disclaimer:

Although I am affiliated with Direction Plus, my decision to use their products was based on my own independent research. I had committed to purchasing their products before they assisted me with this project.

Catch can – Oil vapor removal for turbo diesels

Photo of assembled oil vapor catch can prior to installation

Why should you install an oil catch can to your Turbo Diesel 4×4?

Installing an oil catch can on your Turbo Diesel is a must. We discuss why you should do it and show how simple it is to install.

Oil vapors

Engines have a PCV valve that vents blow-by gas from crank case to the rocker. The rocker cover is also vented to the intake system of the vehicle. This forces oil vapor into the intake system. Turbos create more pressure and therefore more oil vapor.

Photo of air outlet on turbo showing oil leak
Classic oil leak from oil vapors on turbo air outlet

A tell tail of this is oil leaking from the under side of rubber hose on the turbo.

This was not much of a problem in the past, but now with modern emission controls things have changed.

EGR

Part of the emission controls is the EGR – exhaust gas re-circulation. The EGR recirculates some of the exhaust gas back into the intake. This dilutes the amount of oxygen with inert gases, to help reduce combustion heat in the cylinders.

Exhaust gases contain carbons and soot, which on their own don’t do much.

Oil vapors + Exhaust gas

The problem occurs where the oil vapor mix with the exhaust gas. This causes slug and gunk to build up on the intake of your turbo diesel, until the point the engine is choked.

By separating the oil from the intake the exhaust gas can pass through dry. Leaving your intake operating at maximum flow and maximum power.

Blocking off an EGR valve is illegal, although there are many that would consider doing this as well. If you crash your truck whilst towing all your gear and have an accident you may risk jeopardise your insurance claim.

Catch can kit

The catch can filters out the oil vapors from the vent allowing clean air to pass through to the intake system.

After a lot of research I ended up purchasing a Direction-Plus ProVent Catch Can Kit from Berrima Diesel (I am not affiliated with Berrima Diesel).

I considered the ProVent Catch Can Kit the most comprehensive and highest quality. It is also the kit sold by leading diesel shops and repairs.

The kit is complete and easy enough for any one that likes to get there hands dirty to install.

Find your nearest ProVent dealer here: http://direction-plus.com/dealer-locator/

Installation of Catch Can

I installed my catch can with relative ease and it was probably done in about 45 mins (I was videoing so it did actually take longer). The hardest part was getting the hose clamps over the barbs after installing the hose. Highly recommend this install for any DIYer.

Below is the YouTube video I made whilst installing mine on a 2013 Toyota Hilux:

Here is my step by step guide on installing the Direction-Plus ProVent Catch Can kit to a 2013 Turbo Diesel Toyota Hilux.

Photo of assembled oil vapor catch can prior to installation
ProVent catch can pre-assembled for fitting to Toyota Hilux turbo diesel

  • Attach the stainless steel bracket to the catch can, ensuring the hole in the catch can lines up with the pipe on the bracket.
  • Pre-install the hose clamps on the 12mm hose using pliers (put them about 300mm down the hose on both ends).
  • Attach the hose to the catch can
  • Attach the hose to the drip feed (apply some oil to the drip feed barb to make insertion easier)
  • Fit the hose clamps just past the barbs using pliers

Photo of catch can installed to engine bay wall/guard
Mount the catch can to the existing fixed nuts on the engine bay guard

  • Intall the pre-assembled catch can to the inside of the guard using the existing fixed nuts.

Photo of removed bolt from fixed hose between rocker cover and air intake
Remove the bolt for the fixed hose from the rocker cover to air intake

  • Remove the bolt from the fixed hose on the pipe (from the rocker cover to the air intake pipe).
  • Remove the fixed pipe.
  • Cover the pipe going into the turbo to stop debris entering the turbo whilst working.

Photo of rubber hose removed from rocker cover
Remove the rubber hose and clamp from the rocker cover

  • Remove the rubber hose from the rocker cover.
  • Pre-fit the hose clamps to the 16mm hose.
  • Fit the 16mm hose to the stainless steel pipe on the catch can bracket to the rocker cover.
  • Fit the 16mm hose to the rocker cover (you may need to apply some oil to the hose the allow the hose clamp to slide over the barb on the rocker cover)

photo of supplide 16-19mm hose reducer installed from catch can to turbo air intake
Attach the supplied reducer to the original rubber hose still mounted to the turbo air intake and fit the 19mm hose from the catch can to it

  • Pre-fit the hose clamps onto the 19mm hose
  • Install the 19mm hose onto the catch can
  • Pre-fit the hose clamp onto the rubber hose on the turbo
  • Whilst holding the hose clamp open on the pre-fitted to the turbo hose insert the 16mm-19mm hose reducer.
  • Fit the 19mm hose to the reducer.

Photo of catch can drain hose going down the firewall towards the ground
Route the hose down the engine bay avoiding brake lines, steering mechanisms and exhaust pipes

  • Route the drip hose along the firewall avoiding contact with; suspensions components, steering components, exhaust pipes and brake lines.

photo of catch can drain hose zip tied to firewall and leading down to chassis rail
Catch can drain hose zip tied to firewall and leading down to chassis rail

  • Zip tie the drain hose down were possible

Photo of Provent catch can installed beside brake booster in turbo diesel Toyota Hilux engine bay
Installed ProVent catch can in Toyota Hilux turbo diesel engine bay

Job done!

Catch can maintenance

Don’t forget to ensure the drip valve is always closed, dripping oil on the road is illegal!

Empty your catch can during your next service and change the catch can oil filter when required.