Catch can – Oil vapor removal for turbo diesels

Photo of assembled oil vapor catch can prior to installation

Why should you install an oil catch can to your Turbo Diesel 4×4?

Installing an oil catch can on your Turbo Diesel is a must. We discuss why you should do it and show how simple it is to install.

Oil vapors

Engines have a PCV valve that vents blow-by gas from crank case to the rocker. The rocker cover is also vented to the intake system of the vehicle. This forces oil vapor into the intake system. Turbos create more pressure and therefore more oil vapor.

Photo of air outlet on turbo showing oil leak — Classic oil leak from oil vapors on turbo air outlet

A tell tail of this is oil leaking from the under side of rubber hose on the turbo.

This was not much of a problem in the past, but now with modern emission controls things have changed.

EGR

Part of the emission controls is the EGR – exhaust gas re-circulation. The EGR recirculates some of the exhaust gas back into the intake. This dilutes the amount of oxygen with inert gases, to help reduce combustion heat in the cylinders.

Exhaust gases contain carbons and soot, which on their own don’t do much.

Oil vapors + Exhaust gas

The problem occurs where the oil vapor mix with the exhaust gas. This causes slug and gunk to build up on the intake of your turbo diesel, until the point the engine is choked.

By separating the oil from the intake the exhaust gas can pass through dry. Leaving your intake operating at maximum flow and maximum power.

Blocking off an EGR valve is illegal, although there are many that would consider doing this as well. If you crash your truck whilst towing all your gear and have an accident you may risk jeopardise your insurance claim.

Catch can kit

The catch can filters out the oil vapors from the vent allowing clean air to pass through to the intake system.

After a lot of research I ended up purchasing a Direction-Plus ProVent Catch Can Kit from Berrima Diesel (I am not affiliated with Berrima Diesel).

I considered the ProVent Catch Can Kit the most comprehensive and highest quality. It is also the kit sold by leading diesel shops and repairs.

The kit is complete and easy enough for any one that likes to get there hands dirty to install.

Find your nearest ProVent dealer here: http://direction-plus.com/dealer-locator/

Installation of Catch Can

I installed my catch can with relative ease and it was probably done in about 45 mins (I was videoing so it did actually take longer). The hardest part was getting the hose clamps over the barbs after installing the hose. Highly recommend this install for any DIYer.

Below is the YouTube video I made whilst installing mine on a 2013 Toyota Hilux:

Here is my step by step guide on installing the Direction-Plus ProVent Catch Can kit to a 2013 Turbo Diesel Toyota Hilux.

Attach the stainless steel bracket to the catch can, ensuring the hole in the catch can lines up with the pipe on the bracket.
Pre-install the hose clamps on the 12mm hose using pliers (put them about 300mm down the hose on both ends).
Attach the hose to the catch can
Attach the hose to the drip feed (apply some oil to the drip feed barb to make insertion easier)
Fit the hose clamps just past the barbs using pliers

Photo of catch can installed to engine bay wall/guard — Mount the catch can to the existing fixed nuts on the engine bay guard

Intall the pre-assembled catch can to the inside of the guard using the existing fixed nuts.

Photo of removed bolt from fixed hose between rocker cover and air intake — Remove the bolt for the fixed hose from the rocker cover to air intake

Remove the bolt from the fixed hose on the pipe (from the rocker cover to the air intake pipe).
Remove the fixed pipe.
Cover the pipe going into the turbo to stop debris entering the turbo whilst working.

Photo of rubber hose removed from rocker cover — Remove the rubber hose and clamp from the rocker cover

Remove the rubber hose from the rocker cover.
Pre-fit the hose clamps to the 16mm hose.
Fit the 16mm hose to the stainless steel pipe on the catch can bracket to the rocker cover.
Fit the 16mm hose to the rocker cover (you may need to apply some oil to the hose the allow the hose clamp to slide over the barb on the rocker cover)

photo of supplide 16-19mm hose reducer installed from catch can to turbo air intake — Attach the supplied reducer to the original rubber hose still mounted to the turbo air intake and fit the 19mm hose from the catch can to it

Pre-fit the hose clamps onto the 19mm hose
Install the 19mm hose onto the catch can
Pre-fit the hose clamp onto the rubber hose on the turbo
Whilst holding the hose clamp open on the pre-fitted to the turbo hose insert the 16mm-19mm hose reducer.
Fit the 19mm hose to the reducer.

Photo of catch can drain hose going down the firewall towards the ground — Route the hose down the engine bay avoiding brake lines, steering mechanisms and exhaust pipes

Route the drip hose along the firewall avoiding contact with; suspensions components, steering components, exhaust pipes and brake lines.

photo of catch can drain hose zip tied to firewall and leading down to chassis rail — Catch can drain hose zip tied to firewall and leading down to chassis rail

Zip tie the drain hose down were possible

Photo of Provent catch can installed beside brake booster in turbo diesel Toyota Hilux engine bay — Installed ProVent catch can in Toyota Hilux turbo diesel engine bay

Job done!

Catch can maintenance

Don’t forget to ensure the drip valve is always closed, dripping oil on the road is illegal!

Empty your catch can during your next service and change the catch can oil filter when required.

October 20, 2017January 18, 2019

Perfect Hunting Trailer Load Limit

Hunting trailer load limit

Trailer load limit

For trailer load limit as with our 2 other articles GVM and GCM, let’s once again look at 2013 Hilux Turbo diesel manual dual cab. The Hilux has a maximum GCM of 5,210kg and a maximum GVM of 2,710kg (sourced from redbook.com.au). This means I can legally tow a 2,500kg GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) trailer behind my hunting rig (assuming the ute is packed to the max including ball weight).

So do I just make a hunting trailer that has the largest trailer load limit I can tow?

Well just like vehicles, there are ADRs (Australian Design Rules) that apply to the legal requirements of trailers.

In Australia different trailer load limits have different requirements:

Up to 750kg GTM does not require brakes
750kg to 2,000kg GTM must have brakes on at least one axle and they can be over-ride type
Over 2,000kg GTM all wheels must have electric or power assisted hydraulic brakes (driver controlled hand or foot), a tearaway brake system is also required.

Basically once you go over 2,000kg GTM you must have electronic brakes and a tear-away system. This means your vehicle must be fitted with an electric brake controller and you need a battery on board your trailer.

photo of a Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller dial fitted to a switch panel — Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller unit

Electronic brake controller for trailers

Once you put an electric brakes on the trailer, only vehicles with electronic brake controllers can tow the trailer. Well none of my hunting mates have electronic brake controllers. So Instantly no one can legally assist me in towing and I can’t lend the trailer or borrow their vehicle for a hunting trip.

Trailer battery

Might as well add $90 to your registration costs of the trailer. A friend of mine works in a caravan yard. He says that they battery is a guaranteed returning customer. Every year they will be bcak for a new battery because they don’t last with little to no use.

Trailer load limit recommendation

If you have 2x 320kg quads and a 500kg side by side that’s a total weight on 1,140kg. If your trailer weighed 650kg (that would be an extremely heavy trailer) that would leave you about another 210kg for other stuff. For me it would be difficult to justify an extra 500kg carrying capacity at the cost of a battery and electronic brake controller.

To avoid the need for electronic brakes, an electronic brake controller and a trailer battery I would recommend limiting your hunting trailer load limit to 2,000kg. You can use the hunting trailer across more vehicles with less maintenance and less headaches.

Next hunting trailer topics

Trailer Axles
Deck Material, Length and Width
Deciding on trailer Springs
Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting Trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

August 11, 2017October 18, 2019

Hunting vehicle and trailer weight AKA GCM

photo of hilux with quad on back and towing single axle trailer

What is your hunting vehicle and trailer weight?

Previously we spoke about your hunting vehicle weight and determined that the best option was to use a trailer to keep you legal. This should help you avoid overloading your hunting vehicle. So lets look at why this is the best option.

What is GCM?

GCM is Gross Combined Mass, that is the maximum weight the vehicle manufacturer has allowed. That is the total weight of the vehicle, trailer and all the contents. This is one of the reasons the Ford Ranger is a favourite amongst caravaners, because of it high GCM.

Hunting vehicle and trailer weight example

If we use our example of the 2013 Toyota Hilux dual cab manual turbo diesel from the hunting vehicle weight article, it has a GCM of 5,210kg (sourced from redbook.com.au).

Previously the maximum weight we could carry was 990kg (including occupants and everything) with out a trailer.

Lets say the average dual axle steel trailer with brakes weighs 650kg (guestimate based on approximate weights sourced from www.trailersauce.co.nz). We will not talk about the trailer GVM (maximum total trailer weight) to keep it simple.

GCM Table	weight	quantity	Sub-total
Hilux	1720	1	1,720
Tray	250	1	250
Side steps	15	2	30
Bullbar	75	1	75
towbar	40	1	40
Under tray tool box	7	2	14
winch	27	1	27
recovery gear	20	1	20
Water	20	1	20
Long range tank	40	1	40
Air compressor	10	1	10
Bash plates	30	1	30
spotties	2	2	4
Occupants	85	2	170
Dog cage	40	1	40
Dogs	40	2	80
Fridge	40	1	40
Firearms	5	4	20
Ammo	50	1	50
Quads	300	1	300
Unleaded	15	2	30
Cooking gear	40	1	40
Sleeping gear	30	1	30
		Total	3,080
Hilux GCM			5,210
Trailer			650
		Balance	1,480

So straight away you can see you have an extra 1,480kg of carrying capacity, simply by towing a 650kg trailer.

Lets put that in perspective. Let’s add 2 more occupants and 2 more quads and see how much spare weight we have in a hunting vehicle and trailer weight combo.

GCM Table 2	weight	quantity	Sub-total
Hilux GCM			5,210
Hilux and load			3,080
Trailer			650
Occupants	85	2	170
Quads	300	2	600
		Balance	710kg

Instead of being over weight by 370kg like in the Hunting vehicle weight GVM article with just a hunting ute, we now have 2 more hunters and 2 more quads and still room for 710kg of heaps of other hunting gear!

As you can see the advantages of taking a trailer on a hunting trip is significant. In the past I’ve personally towed a boat just to move the weight load off the tray (we didn’t even think about actually using the boat).

The boys from www.hogsdogsquads.com.au have a custom built trailer purely for the purpose of hauling quads for massive hunts up in the Cape. Check out their YouTube video below for a quick look at the setup they have created:

Towing a hunting trailer

For those of you who have never had a trailer before and are concerned about the difficulties of it don’t be. Normal driving with a trailer is very easy. There is only one thing to remember: that you have a trailer on when changing lanes/overtaking.

If your trailer is wider than the tow vehicle, just check the mirrors to make your the wheels are in you lane or not in the gutter. I find it help full to find a spot on the bull-bar to keep aligned to the centre stripe on the road.

Reversing a trailer is something that takes practice. Just take your time and get someone to make sure you don’t hit anything including the trailer on the tray of the ute. Once you learn how the mechanics of reversing a trailer works it’s a breeze.

Dual axle trailers are actually much easier to reverse than single axle trailers, mostly because of the increased length. So don’t be scared to go big straight away.

Conclusion

Get your self a hunting vehicle and trailer setup, stay legal, stay safe, take more mod cons and really be able to enjoy your trip.

But remember shift all the weight to the trailer. The towball weight is part of you GVM. If your not careful you will still be over your GVM but under your GCM and therefore not legal.

Coming soon the best hunting trailer setup.

July 14, 2017October 18, 2019

What is your hunting vehicle’s weight?

Overloaded vehicles

What is your hunting vehicle weight? We have all seen the overloaded Toyota Hilux or Landcruiser on the highway, bum dragging on the ground like a dog with worms. Many of us have probably been guilty of it at some stage (the overloaded vehicle that is).

In recent times, we have experienced the epidemic of the dreaded caravans on our outback roads. This has seen the likes of Queensland’s Transport and Main Roads department increasingly ever present. I know of 2 people with camper trailers being sent home and receiving a hefty fines in 2016 for being over their GCM. So the odds of being caught are high.

What’s possible worse than that is if you’re in an accident and your caught with your vehicle overweight, you could be found liable and have to pay damages out of your own pocket (with no coverage for your vehicle).

Steel dog box and awning, how strong are your dogs?

Vehicle GVM

So what is GVM? What is GCM? What is your payload or in layman’s terms; what’s the weight of your hunting vehicle?

GVM is Gross Vehicle Mass. This is the maximum recommended weight given to a vehicle by its manufacturer. Exceeding your GVM will void your warranty, void your insurance and wreck your springs.

GCM is Gross Combined Mass. This is the maximum recommended weight given to a vehicle and its trailer, by its manufacturer. Exceeding your GCM will void your warranty, void your insurance, wreck your springs and cause brake fade.

In this article we will address GVM and leave GCM for another day.

Payload

The payload of your vehicle is reflective of your GVM. That is the weight of your vehicle plus your payload. Let’s use an old 2013 Hilux dual cab turbo diesel manual as an example (a vehicle I’m sure most of you own or have owned). The Hilux has a kerb weight of 1,720kg and a payload (carrying capacity) of 990kg, the GVM is 2,710kg (sourced from Redbook).

The payload of 990kg includes everything; occupants, bull-bar, tow-bar, tray, service manual, air freshener, floor mats, lollies, drinks, the lot. Everything you have in your vehicle is included in your payload as your carrying capacity.

What’s your hunting vehicle weight?

*Please note some of these weights are guesstimates and your results may vary.

GVM	Weight	Quantity	Sub-total
Hilux	1720	1	1720
Tray – steel	250	1	250
Side steps	15	2	30
Bull-bar	75	1	75
Tow-bar	40	1	40
Under tray tool box	7	2	14
Winch	27	1	27
Recovery gear	20	1	20
Water	20	1	20
Long range tank	40	1	40
Air compressor	10	1	10
Bash plates	30	1	30
Spotties	2	2	4
Occupants	85	2	170
Dog cage	40	1	40
Dogs	40	2	80
Fridge	40	1	40
Firearms	5	4	20
Ammo	50	1	50
Quad	300	1	300
Unleaded	15	2	30
Cooking gear	40	1	40
Sleeping gear	30	1	30
		Total	3,080kg
		Hilux GVM	2,710kg
		Over by	-370kg

Even removing the quad bike your still over, no room for tow ball weight. Note this 3,080kg total does’t include; what’s in the glove-box, centre console, UHF, aerials, floor mats, light bar, shooting spotlight, etc.

As you can see, it’s very easy to go over you GVM/payload on your hunting rig (even on a quick hunting trip).

Basic vehicle weights

So let’s examine what weight we cant avoid and see what we are playing with.

GVM	Weight	Quantity	Sub-total
Hilux	1720	1	1720
Tray – Steel	250	1	250
Side steps	15	2	30
Bull-bar	75	1	75
Tow-bar	40	1	40
Under tray tool box	7	2	14
Winch	27	1	27
Long range tank	40	1	40
Bash plates	1	30	30
Spotties	2	2	4
Occupants	85	1	85
		Total	2,315kg
		Hilux GVM	2,710kg
		Under by	395kg

With only the driver and all the fix items I have 395kg to spare. That’s not much. As soon as you add a second or third person you only have half the weight left. Or you put a quad on your only left with 95kg. That’s not much weight to play with.

Under tray tool boxes, anywhere from 7kg each, plus however much junk you can fit.

Common mistakes

Upgrading your rear springs to 300kg constant load or similar does not increase your carrying capacity. What these springs are designed for is increasing you everyday carrying load (i.e. carrying tools everyday), so that your vehicle handles better.

Another temporary measure is; air bags or air assist. But these to are not for increasing your carrying capacity either.

To increase your carrying capacity you need to do a GVM upgrade such as that done by Creative Conversions, which is very expensive and involves beefing up your rear axle to take the extra load.

Although the 300kg constant load springs and airbags will keep your ride level and maybe the cops off your back, they wont keep you legal.

Hunting vehicle weight reduction

What are the solutions? Well of course you could start leaving stuff behind but most of what’s listed is required on a hunt.

My recommendation is to get a trailer. Even a small un-braked box trailer is going to be; much safer, reduce your hunting vehicle weight and keep you legal. If you use your hunting rig as a daily driver, the best part is you can pre-pack the trailer the day before you leave.

Hogs, dogs and quads have one of the best hunting trailers getting around http://www.hogsdogsquads.com.au/

Other heavy vehicle weight loss considerations

Why does everyone want a steel tray? An aluminum tray will save you about 130kg. By using an aluminum tray you would now have room for 525kg, this is getting to a respectable figure.

This heavy duty BW tray from Chinchilla would easily be 250kg plus the 800kg hydraulic hoist and 25L water tank, by removing this I probably saved close to 400kg.

I have heard some people complain about the aluminum tie-down rails bending when tying down quads. But the reality is they are probably strapping them down to excess.

I live in the city and I would suggest 90% of utes here have aluminum trays and I haven’t seen many with bent tie-down rails. I understand if you throwing stuff in them all the time steel will last longer. But how many people do you know of that had to replace a “worn out” aluminum tray?

Do you really need under tray tool boxes? What have you got in them? More unnecessary junk? Save 14kg plus the excess weight of the contents.

Could you do without a winch? Do you need bash plates? Might be time to do a stock-take. Work out what you actually do and don’t need in order to reduce your hunting vehicle weight. Consider building a dog box from aluminum instead of steal.

Heavy hunting rig payload conclusion

I think there are 2 reasonable options:
1. Fit an aluminum tray
2. Use a trailer

If most of your hunting is solo, fitting an aluminum tray is probably a great idea.

However if your hunting with friends, using a trailer is really the only way to reduce your hunting rig’s weight/payload, but retain all your hunting items.

Get yourself a good trailer!

Ripper of a trailer spotted on Brisbane high way, dual axle, aluminum bed and Off-road tyres

So coming soon is “What’s your hunting rig’s GVM?” and selecting the correct trailer.