Perfect Hunting Trailer Design

Example of a specialised hunting trailer being towed

Perfect Hunting Trailer Design

Hunting trailer design introduction

What is the perfect hunting trailer design? Remember it comes down to; your purpose of use. Because our core purpose is to ensure you make your clear about your requirements and it’s reliable and easy to bush repair.

Because lets face it, we’re out in the bush, 1,000km from the major cities and you probably don’t want to run into trouble. The local mechanics don’t have every single part on the shelf (an unrealistic expectation). We just want to be able to have a good time and get home, without spending a million bucks on repairs.

So this article is a follow on from GVM and GCM, keeping your hunting vehicle legal and safe, whilst transporting everything you need.

Hog dogs and quads hunting trailer — Hogs Dogs and Quads trailer

Hunting trailer topics

So these are the topics we are covering for a hunting trailer design:

Hunting trailer design summary

It’s very easy to let people talk you into over-engineering things, especially if you haven’t had much experience with something. Go to your local service station that does trailer hire and you’ll see they are all the same simple design.

Like anything, maintenance is your friend. Some pre-trip checks can save you a lot of heart ache. But given the goal is reliability, ease of repair and suitability for use. For my hunting needs the perfect hunting trailer would have:

2,000kg load limit
Aluminum deck, 4,900mm x 1,900mm
Tandem axles
Roller rocker springs
Mechanical disc brakes
Over-ride 50mm ball coupling
Flatbed trailer
Falcon rims with light truck tyres
Powder coated, fuel container rack, under tray tool boxes

photo of a perfect trailer hunting design on the highway suitable for hunting — Ripper of a trailer spotted on Brisbane high way, dual axle, aluminum bed and off-road tyres

Make your trailer to suit your needs and use this as a guide to assist your designs.

Hunting trailer links

I haven’t provided information on steel dimensions or draw-bar lengths as there are to many variables. Please speak to a professional in regards to this.

To see why I decided on the above items read the below posts:

A reasonable plan that could be used for a hunting trailer design can be found on www.trailersauce.co.nz Check out the plans for the Flatdeck trailer.

Kits start from the $1000 mark including all the trailer fittings but not the steel for the chassis or decking. Here are a couple of links to some retailers kits (I’m not affiliated with these companies):
http://www.huntsmanproducts.com.au/
http://www.marshall-eng.com.au/
http://trailerspareparts.net.au/

Please if you disagree with any of my findings, leave a comment and explain why, I’d love to hear your reasons!

Hunting trailer topics

October 20, 2017January 18, 2019

Perfect Hunting Trailer Load Limit

Hunting trailer load limit

Trailer load limit

For trailer load limit as with our 2 other articles GVM and GCM, let’s once again look at 2013 Hilux Turbo diesel manual dual cab. The Hilux has a maximum GCM of 5,210kg and a maximum GVM of 2,710kg (sourced from redbook.com.au). This means I can legally tow a 2,500kg GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) trailer behind my hunting rig (assuming the ute is packed to the max including ball weight).

So do I just make a hunting trailer that has the largest trailer load limit I can tow?

Well just like vehicles, there are ADRs (Australian Design Rules) that apply to the legal requirements of trailers.

In Australia different trailer load limits have different requirements:

Up to 750kg GTM does not require brakes
750kg to 2,000kg GTM must have brakes on at least one axle and they can be over-ride type
Over 2,000kg GTM all wheels must have electric or power assisted hydraulic brakes (driver controlled hand or foot), a tearaway brake system is also required.

Basically once you go over 2,000kg GTM you must have electronic brakes and a tear-away system. This means your vehicle must be fitted with an electric brake controller and you need a battery on board your trailer.

photo of a Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller dial fitted to a switch panel — Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller unit

Electronic brake controller for trailers

Once you put an electric brakes on the trailer, only vehicles with electronic brake controllers can tow the trailer. Well none of my hunting mates have electronic brake controllers. So Instantly no one can legally assist me in towing and I can’t lend the trailer or borrow their vehicle for a hunting trip.

Trailer battery

Might as well add $90 to your registration costs of the trailer. A friend of mine works in a caravan yard. He says that they battery is a guaranteed returning customer. Every year they will be bcak for a new battery because they don’t last with little to no use.

Trailer load limit recommendation

If you have 2x 320kg quads and a 500kg side by side that’s a total weight on 1,140kg. If your trailer weighed 650kg (that would be an extremely heavy trailer) that would leave you about another 210kg for other stuff. For me it would be difficult to justify an extra 500kg carrying capacity at the cost of a battery and electronic brake controller.

To avoid the need for electronic brakes, an electronic brake controller and a trailer battery I would recommend limiting your hunting trailer load limit to 2,000kg. You can use the hunting trailer across more vehicles with less maintenance and less headaches.

Next hunting trailer topics

Trailer Axles
Deck Material, Length and Width
Deciding on trailer Springs
Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting Trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

October 20, 2017January 18, 2019

Perfect Hunting Trailer Axles

photo of a single axle table top trailer with 2 quads coupled to a dual cab ute with dog box

Trailer axles

Single trailer axle VS Tandem trailer axle

Single axle trailers have one axle with two wheels. Tandem axle trailers (also known a dual axle trailers) have two trailer axles with four wheels.

Some people will argue that single trailer axle is fine they are lighter and reduce maintenance because of less parts. They do cost less, they are easier to maneuver by hand and easier to maneuver in tight situations.

10x6 tandem box trailer covered in mud carrying a Polaris SxS — Tandem axle 10×6 box trailer used for hunting – carrying a RZR Polaris side by side

There are a few reasons I like tandem axles.

They are a lot more stable when they aren’t attached to the vehicle. Less likely to tip up etc if you stand on the back or unintentionally put some weight on the back.
If you break; an axle, a hub, a wheel or a spring sometimes you can run the trailer on one axle (be mindful you have halved your GTM) by removing the wheels of one axle (preferably the non-braked wheels).
Better suspension set-up for off-road
Tow better at high speeds
Spread of load across the chassis
A flat tyre has dramatic less affect
Lower rated tyres (weight carrying ability)
A lot less wear on the tyres
Easier to learn to reverse

If your going to have a reasonable length trailer, a tandem axle is just common sense. As your spreading the load across the chassis which is important under heavy duty use like we do going out west.

With tandem axles it’s also harder to increase your draw-bar weight (you still need to need aware of it though).

Construction

It would be good at this point to point out to buy solid axles and not weld on hubs. Less points for breakages is a good thing, especially on corrugations along way from home.

photo of roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes — 2000kg trailer load limit roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes

Axle placement

Be mindful of your axle placement, there are lots of camper trailers out there with single axles placed to far back and this puts massive draw bar weight on your vehicle.

Draw bar weight is included in your GVM and excessive weight ruins the ride handling. At www.trailersauce.co.nz they recommend 75mm rear of centre.

Trailer axles recommendation

Tandem trailer axles are the way to go. I’ve spoken to quite a few hunters about their trailers. Only those with single axles have regretted not going tandem and would definitely go dual axle it if they did it again.

Next hunting trailer topics

Deck Material, Length and Width
Deciding on trailer Springs
Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous hunting trailer topic

Trailer Load Limit

October 20, 2017January 18, 2019

Perfect Hunting Trailer Springs

Deciding on trailer springs

Trailer springs – types

There are a few types of trailer springs; slippers, shackles, roller rocker and coils (ignored but not forgotten – airbags). All have there place, purpose and cost.

Since tandem axles are our choice, we will review the trailer springs from that perspective.

For trailers over 2,000kg GTM load sharing trailer springs are required for tandem axles. When you are travelling on rough terrain or corrugations you would be crazy to not use load sharing springs. Even with a 2,000kg GTM trailer, the load sharing will work wonders on its own on rough roads.

Slipper leaf springs

Slippers are the most agricultural of them all, basic in design and cheap. Most trailer shops will not sell a load sharing kit for slipper springs. I would suggest there is a reason for this.

Shackle leaf springs

Shackle springs used to be very common on tandem trailers. I’ve personally used a shackle sprung trailer out west many times with out any issues and couldn’t speak highly enough of.

Photo of roller rocker load sharing arm trailer springs — Roller rocker trailer springs load sharing arm

Roller rocker leaf springs

These have since replaced the once common shackle springs. Instead of mounting to a fixed shackle the the eye of the shackle is elongated and as the spring flexes the bush slide across the eye. This is supposed to significantly reduce the stress on the spring at the eye under constant vibration. In theory reducing breakages. My question is what about the other eye? They are however easier to grease up and maintain than shackles.

Coil springs

Coils (and airbags) are used on independent suspension setups and are very costly. Top end camper trailers are all set-up with coil springs or airbags. You only have to talk to an over-lander and they will tell you the back roads are full of broken camper trailers. Regardless of suspension type they fail and get stripped of good stuff and left behind.

Airbags

Air compressors, airlines, self leveling system etc. Not worth the big $, end of story from me.

Bush mechanics

There are plenty of stories of people repairing broken leaf springs with tree branches and such, I’ve seen it with our family boat trailer. I’ve not heard of similar bush mechanics on coil springs or airbags. Given you probably don’t want to leave it on the side of the road, leaf springs are probably the ticket by far.

Trailer springs recommendation

On my next project I will be installing roller rocker springs. A better product at nearly the same price. With the ability of a bit of bush mechanics if required.

Next topics

Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect hunting trailer type
Wheels for a hunting traile
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous topics

Trailer load limit
Trailer axles
Deck material, length and width

October 20, 2017January 18, 2019

Perfect Hunting Trailer Brakes

Trailer brakes – Drums vs Discs and Cable vs Hydraulic vs Electric

Trailer brakes

As mentioned before in the load limit post, I would not get electric trailer brakes because I’m limiting the use between vehicles. I know that my trailer will be used across many vehicles as most likely yours will too.

So that leaves us with an over-ride system of either mechanical (cable) or hydraulic. Both systems use the same coupling, but have a different unit mounted to the back.

Photo of a trailer with a hydraulic trailer coupling — Over-ride coupling with hydraulic brakes

Hydraulic trailer brakes

These are the same as those fitted to vehicles. There is a hydraulic cylinder fitted to the over-ride that sends fluid to the brake calipers. There is a reservoir on top of the main cylinder at the over-ride with excess fluid in case of leaks or fluid loss.

Well we all have that one mate, you know the one that breaks everything, is reckless and care-free. He is the guy that will stand on the draw-bar and break the reservoir.

Because we are going off-road there is always the chance of pinching a brake line or getting something caught and ripping it off. Unfortunately if damage occurs to a hydraulic brake system, there is little in the way of bush mechanics that could be done to resolve an issue to get them working again

Mechanical trailer brakes

have a simple steel cable that runs from the over-ride system to a lever on the calipers. It’s a basic system that is easy to understand. Which makes it easy to adjust the brakes on the trailer (which you need to do for different loads).

The steel cable is more exposed than hydraulic brake lines and is probably easier to damage. However, you could easily bush repair the steel cable with fencing wire to get you home with operating trailer brakes.

To run mechanical brakes you will need a coupling that has an over-ride option.

Brake type

Next consideration is drum or disc brakes.

Most people would consider drum brakes the most reliable. Most vehicle disc brakes actually have a drum park brake in the centre (this is the case for electric trailer brakes). To maintain drum brakes you need to remove the wheel and the outer drum (in some cases even just to inspect the brake pads).

If you look at boat trailers it’s likely that they are fitted with disc brakes. This is because they can quickly drain the water and reduce rusting (when used in salt water).

Disc brake pads can easily be inspected with out removing any parts and the brake pads can be replaced without removing the wheels.

Trailer brakes recommendation

Mechanical trailer brakes would be my choice due to the ease of repair and simplicity. I would definitely consider disc brakes easier to maintain and keep the mud and water out of.

Next topics

Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect hunting trailer type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous topics

Trailer load limit
Trailer axles
Deck material, length and width
Deciding on trailer springs