Load developement basics

Photo of a case full of progressive powder loads ready to be fired for testing.

Before you even begin reloading you need to understand load developement. This is a method of developing a load that is optimised for your firearm. By stepping through the process, not only will you have a safe load for your firearm but it will be far superior in both accuracy and stability.

Audio version here.

Reloading priority number 1

Load developement is the the most important step in reloading. By ignoring load developement, you could potentially; damage your firearm and/or cause yourself an injury.

The advantage of load developement is you are going to optimise the round for your firearm and situation. This will mean you will have a more accurate and stable round then any factory manufactured option.

If you are considering reloading, load developement is your number 1 priority. If you don’t have time for this, then you shouldn’t be reloading.

Common reloading mistakes

I can personally testify of 2 friends that did not develop a load for their firearms and as a result both quit reloading.

In both cases the same mistake was made. They purchased the projectiles, powder and primers. Looked up the data for their stock and proceeded to reload the maximum recommended charge wait.

The first mate had nothing but dramas; grouping was worse than 150mm and all the cases were jamming the chamber after firing the round. The second mate was getting terrible groupings of about 100mm and then having issues resizing the cases afterward (as the cases had stretched).

The first mate has never revisited reloading.

The second mate came to me some time later with his issues. After asking if he had done his load developement he stated that he had. However, upon investigating his methods of load developement, it turned out he had not (only selecting the maximum charge weight from the chart).

He then did a proper load developement and has had fantastic results ever since.

If you want to have a pleasurable experience with reloading you need to do a load developement. Don’t take any short cuts, don’t waste your time or money thinking you can use someone else’s data.

Getting data off of Facebook is not load developement it’s a meme.

Why do your own load developement?

Every gun is different. Barrel length, twist rate, barrel material, barrel profile (thickness), land depth, crown shape, chamber size, bolt face, firing pin, tolerances, powder, primers, projectiles, cases and the list goes on. These factors all change the performance of a projectile.

The tools used to machine the chambers and barrels wear over time. This means there are micro differences even between firearms that may be considered the identical.

Are you shooting in an area with; high humidity, cold, hot, windy or wet? External factors of your environment can affect your bullet performance even for an identical firearm.

You need to work out your own load specifically for your firearm under your local conditions. Do not get your load developement from Facebook or somewhere else. You do not know what “load developement” means to them and their firearm is not yours.

A successful load developement will get you punching clovers!

How to do a load developement

Most powder and projectile manufacturers will provide the data required to assist in developing a load for your cartridge. ADI which would be the most popular and common powder used in Australia have this available on their website.

All you need to know is the powder, type and weight of projectile you would like to use (selecting the right projectile is a whole topic on its own and I wont touch on it here). Find the right powder and type of projectile from the list and record the details.

I’m going to use .223REM as the example, loaded with Sierra 55gr soft point boat tail (AKA Sierra Super Roo load #1365) and ADI 2206H.

It important to note you need to choose a seating depth before doing the load developement. As changing the seating depth, changes the pressures in the case and the end results. In this example I used ADI’s recommended length of 2.2 inches (this can be changed, but is a whole other topic) which will allow it to fit all magazines.

ADIs current recommendation is a minimum of 25.0gr and a maximum of 26.0gr of 2206H for a 55gr SP (as at the date writing of this blog). So to get a good range of loads to find something consistent I’m going to load in 0.2gr increments (for larger calibres I might load in 0.5gr depending on the recommended min/max). I will load up 5 rounds at each increment: 25.0gr, 25.2gr, 25.4gr, 25.6gr, 25.8gr and 26.0gr (aim for having between 6-8 different load weights spread evenly across the min/max range).

It’s really important to take your time and make sure every round has the same powder weight.

Once loaded up you will need to head to the Range (hopefully without wind) and fire the rounds on paper. Five rounds of the same weight at 1 target. Let the barrel cool and fire the next five and the next target.

This is why you don’t want to burden yourself with too small an increment as the length of time to cool the barrel and check the targets will take way to long (especially if you have to weight for ceasefires).

Check every case after firing. If you see a flattened primer stop! This means there is to much pressure in the case and you should not be using that weight of powder in your firearm.

Checking the load developement results

Now you have your rounds fired onto the targets it’s time to review the results. Typically you want to select the tightest group in the middle of a set of 3. You don’t want to select the “most powerful round before the primers flatten”.

What you want is the most stable load. The load that allows for the greatest variance with minimal change. That way if the powder drop is slightly more or slightly less than intended there is no change to the point of impact on the target.

Once you have found that perfect middle ground it’s time to load away!

Other concepts to consider for improving your groups (tighten your groups/accuracy) are:

  • Seating depth
  • Primer type
  • Consistant powder drops
  • Neck tension
  • Matched cases (identical cases)
  • Powder selection

For the purposes of hunting and saving money the above can be ignored, however selecting the seating depth is something I would definitely consider recommending from the start. But this is an introduction to people considering reloading and the seating depth is not a deal breaker, you’ll still out perform factory loads following this guide.

If you need more advise head over to the Australian Reloading Talk & Trade Facebook group.

Reloading – When to start

When should you consider reloading?
When should you consider reloading?
When is the right time to consider reloading?

Deciding if reloading is for you can be a difficult choice. I’ve come up with 5 reasons why you should consider reloading:

  1. Budget
  2. Competition
  3. Projectiles
  4. Precision/Accuracy
  5. Availability

Podcast version here.

We will take a look at these 5 reasons see if you think that you may be ready to start reloading. Because the biggest step is buying the reloading equipement at the start and ultimately how much you want to spend on this initial purchase.

Budget reloading

Now when I’m talking about budget reloading, I’m talking about saving money due to the quantity of ammunition required. I’m not talking per box of 20, we are talking more like 100 rounds plus.

So this might fit you if your doing tons of varmint shooting, roo shooting or heading down to the range regularly. It would be nothing for me to head out on a cull in western Queensland and use 300 rounds in 3 nights.

Anyone that says you can’t save money reloading has never crunched the number. In a future blog I’m going to show a couple of examples of just how much money can be saved.

If your shooting large quantities of the same type of round, then you should start reloading.

Competition reloading

There are a few shooting competitions that require specific types of ammunition to be used when competing. The 2 examples that I can think of off the top of my head is; F Class and Single Action/Cowboy shooting.

Now I can’t vouch for F Class as I’ve never been involved in it at this point. But I know that you need to use NRAA approved ammunition. They have limits on factory ammunition you can use and the projectiles and powders that can be hand loaded. Having limits on the factory ammunition you can use could cause you issues with availability, which we will talk about later.

However, I am involved in Cowboy shooting and there are SASS rules for ammunition. These include minimum and maximum powder chargers, must be a lead projectile and must have a minimum power factor of 60 (see the SASS shooters handbook for full details).

Now you can buy Cowboy loads but they are extremely expensive in some cases, which goes back to point 1 reloading for budget.

Projectiles

There are so many types of projectiles and every type of projectile has a different purpose. Different; weights, expansion rates, tips, partitions, materials and much more. Not all of these projectiles are available in factory loads.

photo of 4 different rounds sliced in half
Different projectiles have vastly different internals affecting what happens after impact.

Maybe there is a certain projectile that you want to use for a specific game, type of shooting or you’ve heard it has really good results in your type of firearm.

Sometimes these projectiles you would like to shoot can be very expensive to buy in factory rounds, once again back to budget. Then now would be the time to start reloading.

Precision/Accuracy reloading

If you are chasing improved accuracy or precision shooting, factory ammunition is not an option. Maybe your doing precision shooting or long range shooting up to or over 1,000 metres.

In my experience even the most basic reloading can have exceptional accuracy improvements. The reason for this is due to the fact that by going through the load development phase of reloading, you are optimizing the round for your firearm.

Factory rounds are constructed to to be a good middle range for all firearms, hence why people that shoot factory rounds will try several brands and types of rounds to find what shoots best in their firearm.

Precision and long range shooting is a whole other kettle of fish. These guys can go to extremes chasing the perfect result. Because of the different; barrel lengths, barrel contours, twist rates, calibers, powders, primers and projectiles there are never ending combinations. If your OCD, this is the perfect sport for you!

Why would OCD people love shooting? Well you get to;

  • weigh every grain of powder,
  • measure every case length,
  • drill every flash hole
  • weigh every projectile
  • check the eccentricity
  • measure overall length

and the list goes on (please note this is not required for basic reloading – this is extreme).

By reloading you are tailoring your round specifically to your firearm and the results will be amazing. If you are wanting to do precision shooting or just want to improve your firearms accuracy (reloading cannot fix poor shooting skills) than reloading is for you!

Availability

When I first purchased my Remington 7600 35 Whelen I was told I could readily get ammunition for it. True most gun shops had a box or two, but in order to get a 10-20% discount you need to buy a carton of 200 rounds.

When I went to get some rounds when the gun finally turned up between 3 stores that I regularly frequented at that time I could only get 1 from one store, 2 from a second and 2 from a third. So between 3 stores I could get 100 rounds at full price.

35 Whelen is not even a particularly rare cartridge. But what happens when you go west and run out and have to go to town to get some more rounds? You’ll probably be lucky if they have any stock. Not to mention it might not even be the same brand, which will require sighting in again.

So if you have an obscure cartridge or a wildcat cartridge that you are going to shoot a heap or regularly it’s probably a good idea to start reloading. Because otherwise consistency is going to be hard to achieve.

Conclusion

Look these are just a few quick dot points for reasons to start reloading, no doubt there are thousands of reasons to start reloading. But if your hands on, being doing the sport for a while, have some down time and tick the box for any of the above reasons. Go get yourself a basic reloading kit and get cracking!

Nothing but the endless pursuit of precision ahead!

Happy reloading,

Blingblingbob.

Howa 1500 .223 best varmint gun

Howa 1500 best varmint gun, big call. Of course this article will cause a lot of contention. But what I want to provoke more is the importance of “purpose of use” and as such why the Howa 1500 varmint in .223 is the best varmint gun for my purpose.

I’ve been hunting since I was 18 (I’ve been going hunting with my Dad since I was 4). Last year 2016, saw me buy my first firearm smaller than a .308. My Dad had given my a .22 air rifle and a .22 rim fire, but I never bought them and never hunted with them.

browning-bpr-pump-action-308-cat

I had always said .308 was the perfect caliber. Big enough to smash every pig I’d ever come across and the perfect size for a cat and best varmint gun.

I was indiscriminate, under spotlight if a saw it, I shot it with a .308. Why because it was what I had and it was cheap (well I thought it was cheap). To me it was cheap because I’d reloaded about 1000 rounds and 6 years later I was still shooting off those rounds. They were in fact, expensive. I’d just forgotten how much they cost.

Purpose of use

When I started getting low on .308 rounds I needed to reload and I realised the cost. So it was time to reconsider. I thought about what I was using the firearm for and identified 95% of my shooting was under spotlight, off the back of a vehicle at varmint. The .308 was overkill and I was paying for it. So I knew it was time to get a .22 caliber rifle cartridge varmint gun.

Caliber selection

22-hornet-vs-222-vs-223-cartridges
Left to right .22 Hornet, .223 Remington, .222 Remington

The obvious choices were .222, .223 and my Dad insisted on the .22 hornet. The triple 2 is definitely a more accurate caliber than the .223. All the stats I looked at and all the comparisons I could find indicated that. But it wasn’t as cheap. The hornet… well it’s not cheap and not readily available, so sorry Dad, no.

The .223 is a cheap reliable cartridge you can pickup anywhere. You can probably get free secondhand cases from most of your mates if you reload. It’s also available in bulk packs. It’s one of the cheapest rifle cartridges by a long shot.

Most of my shooting off the vehicle is under spotlight shooting at; foxes, hares, rabbits, cats and occasional certified mitigation of macropods. The .223 in a 55gr has plenty of stopping power.

So the caliber was sorted.

Choices

My next obstacle was being left eye dominate. This eliminates a lot of firearms. My budget was to stick below $1500, because it was to be a knock about, to rattle around in the back of the Ute.

Now I could consider a right handed gun, being right handed, it’s very convenient for reloading. But if you have ever sliced your thumb open with a bolt… It feels very similar to levering your finger into a 30 30 trigger, very painful. So right handed bolt is out.

So my obvious options for a varmint gun where; Remington 700, Savage Axis, Tikka T3, Browning T-bolt and Ruger Scout (Howa do not make a left handed firearm). There are plenty of good reviews of these firearms on YouTube.

Magazine

Because of our hunting style there were some other factors I wanted to consider. The biggest annoyance with my Tikka T3 .308 was the inability to top load the magazine. The Tikka requires removal of the magazine to fill it. It also does not like single loading over an empty magazine.

Now in the middle of the night in the freezing cold racing across the paddock. Means I have to hold the roll-bar with my armpit, magazine in one hand, open the ammo box and load with the other hand, while holding the firearm between my legs and with my bicep. With frozen fingers try to precisely get the rounds into the magazine without dropping anything or falling over. So top load only.

So this immediately eliminated the; Tikka, Savage and Browning. At this point I discovered the Sako was prefect, removable box mag that holds 6, flush mounted and can be top loaded. The only one of its kind and highest mag capacity. Unfortunately way out of my price range.

Tikka-T3-Lucky-13-magazine
Tikka T3 with Lucky 13 10 shot magazine

This left me with the Ruger Scout and Remington 700. This brought me to my next problem, magazine length. On my Tikka .308 I have a 10 round mag that hungs well below the stock. This often knocks on the roll bar or gets caught in the window. It was terrible for shooting from a vehicle or on a rest.

So the Ruger Scout was out and another firearm modded with a DBM.

Barrel

Another factor I considered was the barrel. Because I intended to do no walking with this firearm, it was purely for off the back of a Ute or out the window. The varmint barrel was an easy choice, for its renowned accuracy.

So all that research left the Remington 700, available in blued, stainless and varmint barrels, with a 5 shot mag. The firearm has a great reputation and a favorite amongst many people.

So I headed down to my LGS (local gun shop) to have a look. Firstly there were no left handed ones in stock. Everyone kept trying to make me buy a Tikka, the obvious left handed choice, but the worst choice for my purpose.

I had a play with some right handed Remington 700s. Compared to my Tikka they are so clunky and agricultural. It felt rough, unfinished and the synthetic stock was hollow and flexed under my cheek. I could not get how horrible this stock was out of my head. I know I could replace it, but with the price of a new stock the Sako is becoming very attractive.

I went home felt my Tikka’s synthetic stock, felt my Remington 7600’s synthetic stock (on 2 guns), the 700’s stock was absolutely garbage.

But it was the perfect firearm for my needs. So I started looking at replacement stocks. The option I liked the most was a Boyd stock, which if under $100USD they would ship to Australia.

Decision made I headed back down to the LGS (understand I’d been researching this for like 8 weeks to make this decision). Slapped my credit card on the table and said “order me a left handed Remington varmint gun”, “we can’t, Remington is in such high demand they have stopped manufacturing left handed guns!” What! No way! I left the shop and was like liars! I’ll shop else where. But several calls later no one had one and the distributor confirmed there was an unknown ETA of the next shipment.

Outside choices

So I started looking at secondhand firearm websites and dribbling around the internet frustrated. I started googling ‘left-handed right eye dominate’ in my frustration and low and behold I found that Boyd did a left handed thumb-hole stock for a right handed bolt… This allows the bolt to go over the hand without making contact.

From my original researching early on watching YouTube videos the Howa was a clear winner but only a 4 shot mag and right handed. But it top loads, in .223, in stainless, in varmint, in the price range and available.

howa-1500-223-right-handed-bolt-left-handed-stock
Howa 1500 .223 and Boyd left handed stock

But here is the best part, being right handed but left eye dominate; having a right handed firearm is awesome for reloading! I would suggest that for my purposes this is the best outcome.

Howa-1500-left-eye-dominate-right-handed-boyd-stock
Howa 1500 .223 and Boyd left handed thumb-hole stock

So I purchased a Howa 1500 in stainless steel with a varmint barrel and a Boyd stock in nutmeg (the only choice for under $100). It’s fantastic I love it, even after a year I feel my choice was right and I purchased the best varmint gun for my needs.

Modifications

Turns out though I was scrolling through a gun shop website looking for a second Howa 1500 in .223 (yes I love the gun that much I can justify 2) and I couldn’t help but notice this:

Top is a magazine and trigger guard for a .223 Howa, below that is a magazine and trigger guard for a .308 Howa. If I remove these limiting tabs I can gain an extra 2 rounds in, making the Howa 1500 a 6 shot, 1 round more than the Remington 700.

Considerations

I know that there are a lot of other guns out there, I know everyone has their personal opinions about what’s the best gun. But for my requirements;

  • Budget
  • Caliber
  • Window shooting
  • Back of Ute shooting
  • Under spotlight
  • Flush magazine
  • Higher magazine capacity
  • Top loading
  • Varmint barrel
  • Left eye dominate
  • Right handed
  • Available

After checking off all these requirements the Howa 1500 was the best varmint gun for a left eye dominate – right handed – spotlighter – shooting varmint from a vehicle.

Conclusion

So I hope you learnt something for your next varmint gun or firearm purchase. Make sure you define your perimeters and requirements, so you can make sure your choice is perfect for your needs. There’s a high chance the Howa 1500 is not perfect for you. So I refer you to my original statement: “purpose of use”

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