Perfect Hunting Trailer Load Limit

photo of roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes and 2000kg trailer load limit

Hunting trailer load limit

Trailer load limit

For trailer load limit as with our 2 other articles GVM and GCM, let’s once again look at 2013 Hilux Turbo diesel manual dual cab. The Hilux has a maximum GCM of 5,210kg and a maximum GVM of 2,710kg (sourced from redbook.com.au). This means I can legally tow a 2,500kg GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) trailer behind my hunting rig (assuming the ute is packed to the max including ball weight).

So do I just make a hunting trailer that has the largest trailer load limit I can tow?

Well just like vehicles, there are ADRs (Australian Design Rules) that apply to the legal requirements of trailers.

In Australia different trailer load limits have different requirements:

  • Up to 750kg GTM does not require brakes
  • 750kg to 2,000kg GTM must have brakes on at least one axle and they can be over-ride type
  • Over 2,000kg GTM all wheels must have electric or power assisted hydraulic brakes (driver controlled hand or foot), a tearaway brake system is also required.

Basically once you go over 2,000kg GTM you must have electronic brakes and a tear-away system. This means your vehicle must be fitted with an electric brake controller and you need a battery on board your trailer.

photo of a Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller dial fitted to a switch panel
Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller unit

Electronic brake controller for trailers

Once you put an electric brakes on the trailer, only vehicles with electronic brake controllers can tow the trailer. Well none of my hunting mates have electronic brake controllers. So Instantly no one can legally assist me in towing and I can’t lend the trailer or borrow their vehicle for a hunting trip.

Trailer battery

Might as well add $90 to your registration costs of the trailer. A friend of mine works in a caravan yard. He says that they battery is a guaranteed returning customer. Every year they will be bcak for a new battery because they don’t last with little to no use.

Trailer load limit recommendation

If you have 2x 320kg quads and a 500kg side by side that’s a total weight on 1,140kg. If your trailer weighed 650kg (that would be an extremely heavy trailer) that would leave you about another 210kg for other stuff. For me it would be difficult to justify an extra 500kg carrying capacity at the cost of a battery and electronic brake controller.

To avoid the need for electronic brakes, an electronic brake controller and a trailer battery I would recommend limiting your hunting trailer load limit to  2,000kg. You can use the hunting trailer across more vehicles with less maintenance and less headaches.

Next hunting trailer topics

Trailer Axles
Deck Material, Length and Width
Deciding on trailer Springs
Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting Trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

Perfect Hunting Trailer Axles

photo of a single axle table top trailer with 2 quads coupled to a dual cab ute with dog box

Trailer axles

Single trailer axle VS Tandem trailer axle

Single axle trailers have one axle with two wheels. Tandem axle trailers (also known a dual axle trailers) have two trailer axles with four wheels.

Some people will argue that single trailer axle is fine they are lighter and reduce maintenance because of less parts. They do cost less, they are easier to maneuver by hand and easier to maneuver in tight situations.

10x6 tandem box trailer covered in mud carrying a Polaris SxS
Tandem axle 10×6 box trailer used for hunting – carrying a RZR Polaris side by side

There are a few reasons I like tandem axles.

  • They are a lot more stable when they aren’t attached to the vehicle. Less likely to tip up etc if you stand on the back or unintentionally put some weight on the back.
  • If you break; an axle, a hub, a wheel or a spring sometimes you can run the trailer on one axle (be mindful you have halved your GTM) by removing the wheels of one axle (preferably the non-braked wheels).
  • Better suspension set-up for off-road
  • Tow better at high speeds
  • Spread of load across the chassis
  • A flat tyre has dramatic less affect
  • Lower rated tyres (weight carrying ability)
  • A lot less wear on the tyres
  • Easier to learn to reverse

If your going to have a reasonable length trailer, a tandem axle is just common sense. As your spreading the load across the chassis which is important under heavy duty use like we do going out west.

With tandem axles it’s also harder to increase your draw-bar weight (you still need to need aware of it though).

Construction

It would be good at this point to point out to buy solid axles and not weld on hubs. Less points for breakages is a good thing, especially on corrugations along way from home.

photo of roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes
2000kg trailer load limit roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes

Axle placement

Be mindful of your axle placement, there are lots of camper trailers out there with single axles placed to far back and this puts massive draw bar weight on your vehicle.

Photo of camper trailer with long draw-bar and large box in front of camper demonstrating possible bad axle placement
Non-central trailer axles placement increases draw-bar weight

Draw bar weight is included in your GVM and excessive weight ruins the ride handling. At www.trailersauce.co.nz they recommend 75mm rear of centre.

Trailer axles recommendation

Tandem trailer axles are the way to go. I’ve spoken to quite a few hunters about their trailers. Only those with single axles have regretted not going tandem and would definitely go dual axle it if they did it again.

Next hunting trailer topics

Deck Material, Length and Width
Deciding on trailer Springs
Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous hunting trailer topic

Trailer Load Limit

Perfect Hunting Trailer Springs

photo of roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes and 2000kg trailer load limit

Deciding on trailer springs

Trailer springs – types

There are a few types of trailer springs; slippers, shackles, roller rocker and coils (ignored but not forgotten – airbags). All have there place, purpose and cost.

Since tandem axles are our choice, we will review the trailer springs from that perspective.

For trailers over 2,000kg GTM load sharing trailer springs are required for tandem axles. When you are travelling on rough terrain or corrugations you would be crazy to not use load sharing springs. Even with a 2,000kg GTM trailer, the load sharing will work wonders on its own on rough roads.

Slipper leaf springs

Slippers are the most agricultural of them all, basic in design and cheap. Most trailer shops will not sell a load sharing kit for slipper springs. I would suggest there is a reason for this.

photo of tandem trailer shackle leaf springs load sharing arm
Tandem trailer shackle leaf springs load sharing

Shackle leaf springs

Shackle springs used to be very common on tandem trailers. I’ve personally used a shackle sprung trailer out west many times with out any issues and couldn’t speak highly enough of.

Photo of roller rocker load sharing arm trailer springs
Roller rocker trailer springs load sharing arm

Roller rocker leaf springs

These have since replaced the once common shackle springs. Instead of mounting to a fixed shackle the the eye of the shackle is elongated and as the spring flexes the bush slide across the eye. This is supposed to significantly reduce the stress on the spring at the eye under constant vibration. In theory reducing breakages. My question is what about the other eye? They are however easier to grease up and maintain than shackles.

Coil springs

Coils (and airbags) are used on independent suspension setups and are very costly. Top end camper trailers are all set-up with coil springs or airbags. You only have to talk to an over-lander and they will tell you the back roads are full of broken camper trailers. Regardless of suspension type they fail and get stripped of good stuff and left behind.

Airbags

Air compressors, airlines, self leveling system etc. Not worth the big $, end of story from me.

Bush mechanics

There are plenty of stories of people repairing broken leaf springs with tree branches and such, I’ve seen it with our family boat trailer. I’ve not heard of similar bush mechanics on coil springs or airbags. Given you probably don’t want to leave it on the side of the road, leaf springs are probably the ticket by far.

Trailer springs recommendation

On my next project I will be installing roller rocker springs. A better product at nearly the same price. With the ability of a bit of bush mechanics if required.

Next topics

Choosing trailer brakes
Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect hunting trailer type
Wheels for a hunting traile
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous topics

Trailer load limit
Trailer axles
Deck material, length and width

Perfect Hunting Trailer Brakes

photo of roller rocker springs with mechanical disc brakes and 2000kg trailer load limit

Trailer brakes – Drums vs Discs and Cable vs Hydraulic vs Electric

Trailer brakes

As mentioned before in the load limit post, I would not get electric trailer brakes because I’m limiting the use between vehicles. I know that my trailer will be used across many vehicles as most likely yours will too.

So that leaves us with an over-ride system of either mechanical (cable) or hydraulic. Both systems use the same coupling, but have a different unit mounted to the back.

Photo of a trailer with a hydraulic trailer coupling
Over-ride coupling with hydraulic brakes

Hydraulic trailer brakes

These are the same as those fitted to vehicles. There is a hydraulic cylinder fitted to the over-ride that sends fluid to the brake calipers. There is a reservoir on top of the main cylinder at the over-ride with excess fluid in case of leaks or fluid loss.

Well we all have that one mate, you know the one that breaks everything, is reckless and care-free. He is the guy that will stand on the draw-bar and break the reservoir.

Because we are going off-road there is always the chance of pinching a brake line or getting something caught and ripping it off. Unfortunately  if damage occurs to a hydraulic brake system, there is little in the way of bush mechanics that could be done to resolve an issue to get them working again

Photo of Mechanical trailer brakes cable opperated
Mechanical trailer brakes – simple cable, pulley and piston set-up

Mechanical trailer brakes

have a simple steel cable that runs from the over-ride system to a lever on the calipers. It’s a basic system that is easy to understand. Which makes it easy to adjust the brakes on the trailer (which you need to do for different loads).

The steel cable is more exposed than hydraulic brake lines and is probably easier to damage. However, you could easily bush repair the steel cable with fencing wire to get you home with operating trailer brakes.

To run mechanical brakes you will need a coupling that has an over-ride option.

Brake type

Next consideration is drum or disc brakes.

Most people would consider drum brakes the most reliable. Most vehicle disc brakes actually have a drum park brake in the centre (this is the case for electric trailer brakes). To maintain drum brakes you need to remove the wheel and the outer drum (in some cases even just to inspect the brake pads).

If you look at boat trailers it’s likely that they are fitted with disc brakes. This is because they can quickly drain the water and reduce rusting (when used in salt water).

Disc brake pads can easily be inspected with out removing any parts and the brake pads can be replaced without removing the wheels.

Trailer brakes recommendation

Mechanical trailer brakes would be my choice due to the ease of repair and simplicity. I would definitely consider disc brakes easier to maintain and keep the mud and water out of.

Next topics

Which coupling/hitch for a hunting trailer coupling
Perfect hunting trailer type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous topics

Trailer load limit
Trailer axles
Deck material, length and width
Deciding on trailer springs

Perfect Hunting Trailer Couplings

photo of a 50mm ball fitted to a 2 inch tongue hitch

Hunting Trailer Couplings

There are 3 main trailer couplings/hitches in Australia (of course there are many others); 50mm ball, Treg hitch and Hitchmaster DO35. Searching online you’ll find tons of articles written about trailer couplings and they will all tell you to get the DO35. Let’s look at why this might not be the best option for you.

photo of a Hitchmaster DO35 trailer couplings connected to a matching hitch missing dust cover
The caravaners choice Hitchmaster DO35 trailer couplings – missing dust cover

Hitchmaster DO35

The Hitchmaster DO35 is the best trailer coupling on the market. It’s much easier to hook up than a Treg hitch, it’s super quiet and allows the most ridiculous angles at the coupling.

The DO35 does not come with a brake over-ride option (for mechanical trailer brakes) as is strictly for use with electric brakes (or similar). You’ll also need a dust cover to protect everything, which often goes missing.

photo of a standard Treg hitch trailer couplings
Treg hitch trailer couplings – AKA poly block

Treg Hitch

The Treg hitch (also known as poly block trailer couplings) are one of the most common couplings found on camper trailers.

They have fantastic angle movement at the coupling and are available in a brake over-ride option.

The poly block removes most of the “knocking” from the trailer, so they are quiet. They are however, incredibly difficult in comparison to hook up. The height has to be perfect, the block has to be straight and there is a small hole that has to be lined up for the pin to go through. You have to reverse it in, you can’t just lower it.

Lastly the poly block can deteriorate over time and need replacing.

photo of old rusted 50mm ball trailer couplings
Old school 50mm ball coupling with mechanic brake over-ride

50mm ball coupling

The 50mm ball hitch is standard on just about every ute in the country. They are incredibly easy to hook up, even on your own, basically maintenance free (might need a little grease at some stage) and available for trailer brake over-ride system (for use with mechanical brakes).

Because I’m not going hardcore off-roading I don’t need a coupling capable of ridiculous angles, I’m only using it to hunting gear there and back.

We got stuck in some serious black mud on on trip in 2016. We simply unloaded the quads unhooked the trailer and towed the trailer with the quads (because the quads to had 50mm ball hitches). If it wasn’t for that we would not have got out with the trailer.

photo of a 50mm ball fitted to a 2 inch tongue hitch
50mm ball hitch

Recommendation

Don’t over engineer it, don’t complicate it, keep it easy for yourself and stick with a 50mm ball coupling with a brake over-ride for mechanical brakes.

A 50mm ball is compatible with most vehicles and does everything you need to for hauling a trailer.

Next topics

Perfect Hunting Trailer Type
Wheels for a hunting trailer
Trailer finish and accessories

Previous topics

Trailer load limit
Trailer axles
Deck material, length and width
Deciding on trailer springs
Choosing trailer brakes