There are 2 easy options for trailer wheels; standard Ford Falcon style rims (same stud pattern as 2WD Hilux) with light truck tyres and 4×4 rims and tyres that match the tow vehicle.
Of course there is everything in between but these are the realistic choices as we discuss in detail below.
Ford Falcon style trailer rims
The reason I say Ford Falcon style rims for use as trailer wheels is because this is the most common stud pattern for trailers and a very common rim on passenger cars.
Ford Falcon rims are smaller width and take a smaller overall size tyre, this will lower the deck height of the trailer significantly.
Keeping the deck height lower to the ground makes the trailer easier to load and lowers the centre of gravity making it safer to tow.
Light truck tyres are cheaper and easy to obtain than bigger 4×4 off-road style tyres. Having cheaper trailer wheels means you can probably afford to have multiple spares.
Clearance of the axles on a trailer is not as much of an issue as you would think. 2,000kg tandem trailer axles are 45mm square, which is approximately 2/3 of a 4X4 diff. Trailer axles also do not have a differential pumpkin hanging down from the centre of the axle, creating a lot more clearance.
4×4 style trailer rims
Trailer wheels that match your tow vehicle are great in that you can carry extra spares across the vehicle and trailer.
Having 4×4 off-road trailer wheels however will raise the deck height of the trailer and center of gravity. The tyres will cost you more and if your they are not standard sizes you may have difficulties buying spares when your way out west.
4×4 wheels that do not match your tow vehicle are a waste and you might as well have Falcon rims. Which bring me to the point; if your going to use the trailer on another vehicle and it has different size tyres, then you have voided the benefits of matching tyres.
Trailer tyres
Just like your ute there are lots of tyre options out there. For a really good read on bias ply vs tubeless radials for off-roading read this article by Beadell Tours.
I’ve done a lot of research on the best tyre options for hunting. A very common search result is “Best tyres for roo shooting”. What you’ll find is that for “roo shooting’ the best tyre is a bias ply light truck tyre with aggressive tread such as a MRF M77.
The reason roo shooters choose a bias ply tyre like an MRF M77 is because they have a very thick side wall and very resistant to being stacked. When your constantly driving through sticks and rocks like roo shooters this is a constant problem.
However, these types of tyres are very expensive ranging from $250 – $360. I found the cheapest place to buy these types of tyres was out west like Goondiwindi (I’m from Brisbane).
I spoke at length with 2 tyre shops, they both recommended bias ply for roo shooting. However they said that they are horrible on the highway due to being a heavy tyre and the tread patterns. Both agreed that they basically just melt on the highway, expecting only 20,000km out of a set vs 50,000km from tubeless radials. For ride, comfort, longevity and cost tubeless radials are easily on top.
The trailer is not for roo shooting, it’s going to be used 90% of the time on the highway. So really you only want highway tyres. The trailer is only being pulled so mud tyres are no advantage (they cannot spin to clear the grooves either).
Trailer wheels recommendation
I’ve change my mind several times on wheel choice for a hunting trailer. But sticking with my purpose of use the decision is easily made.
Ford Falcon rims would be my preferred option for a trailer wheel. But for me it will come down to cost and the fact that I will be using the trailer across different vehicles with different tyre sizes.
The tyres I would choose would be a reasonable tubeless radial light truck tyres. They are cheap, great on the highway and mostly only used on roads. Once I get to my destination the trailer is unhitched and not used until the return trip. Just make sure they are rated to the load limit of the trailer (ie 2000kg = 4x 500kg tyres).
Let’s look at the trailer finish and trailer accessories that will improve it’s use. I’m not going to cover legal requirements such as lights and mud guards, please check your state regulations and ADR’s.
Trailer coatings
Galvanized vs painted.
Galvanizing a trailer will add an excessive amount of weight to a trailer. Galvanizing is a must for boat trailers or anyone living along the coast. The galvanizing does give you a very strong protective coating. But as soon as you make any modification to the trailer (grinding or welding) the benefits start declining as zinc paint is not the same quality.
Powder coating a trailer is another good option. Just about every Hilux and Landcruiser steel tray is powder coated and you can see how well they last.
Trailer extras
Some extras to consider putting on your hunting trailer discussed below. Keep in mind that you want to keep your GTM as low as possible, so consider only adding what you need and not what you want (purpose of use).
Stone protection
A trailer behind a vehicle on a gravel road will just get sand blasted. Not only that, but projectiles bounce off the trailer and onto the rear of the vehicle. Sometimes smashing rear windows or in our case covering the dogs in large chunks of mud lol.
This is why it’s important to have a stone guard on the trailer. On our last trip we lost the plastics off a two wheeler from getting smashed by gravel and mud for 300km.
As well as a stone guard you can use 3 semi-trailer truck mudflaps or a single piece of rubber across the back of your tow vehicle. This should significantly reduce the amount of projectiles coming from the rear of the vehicle.
Spare wheel carrier
Consider putting at minimum 1 spare trailer wheel on the trailer. However, I think 2 spares is best on big trips. An easy option is on the draw bar, but you can always fit an under tray style spare wheel bracket like a Hilux one cheaply and this reduces draw-bar weight.
Fuel and water storage
when taking quad bikes etc. you can’t have to much fuel or water. Most 20L plastic fuel containers are 180mm (I personally own Pro Quip) allowing you to fit 10 in a row just in front of the head board on the draw bar. Once again be mindful of the draw bar weight when considering this.
Note: Fuel is about 75% the weight of water and diesel is about 83% (sourced from www.quora.com).
Recovery points
Is there a chance you may need to pull the trailer out backwards? Maybe a rear towbar or a pair of recovery points could be installed during the build.
Spares storage
Bearings, grease, dust caps, rags and tie downs should always be on board a good trailer. Under tray tool boxes would be a good option for storing this kind of stuff without increasing draw-bar weight.
Try not to buy one that hangs to low, especially if your using Ford Falcon trailer wheels.
Shock absorbers
This is more of an issue were you don’t want to bounce the contents of what’s on the back, such as a caravan or camper trailer. Also with load sharing roller rockers the axle movement can reduce some of this requirement. By not fitting them you are significantly reducing the overall build cost at no real gains.
Trailer plug
What’s standard for your state/region? What have your mates got? In the past Queenslanders always used a round 7, but this has been slowly changing to a flat 7. Adapters are available so it’s not a major issue, just have a look around before you choose.
Trailer sides
If your going to use the trailer for other activities this is something you may wish to install. But with the current tie-down laws it doesn’t have the benefits it used to and quads might not fit with them installed either.
If you do choose to install them make sure they are easily removable.
Jockey wheel
Fitment of a jockey wheel to a large trailer is a must for usability. The bigger the wheel the easier it is to move on rough terrain. What I wouldn’t recommend is a pneumatic tyre (inflatable) guaranteed it’s flat every time you go to use it.
Trailer accessories and finish recommendation
To keep weight down, cost and ease of repair I would get my trailer painted. After that I would get these accessories:
Stone protection on trailer plus a full row of truck mudflaps on vehicle
2 spare wheels mounted under the trailer with Hilux style spare wheel mounts
facility to hold 10 fuel/water containers across the draw-bar
2 recovery points on the rear of the chassis for a recovery bridle
How big and what material should you make the trailer deck from?
The chassis of the trailer is going to need to be made from steel, I don’t think this is avoid able. Aluminum will fatigue and crack on corrugations, that’s way no camper trailers have aluminum chassis’. So we are only looking at trailer deck.
Deck material
Deck material and sides affects the trailer in 2 ways; weight and usability.
If you choose to make the trailer deck from steel it’s going to more resistant to abuse but weigh more. But make the trailer deck from aluminum it wont handle abuse but will be much lighter. A wooden deck will not last in the whether and can be very slippery.
As I mentioned in the GVM article aluminum is strong enough for general use, treated with care it wont let you down If you use ute tray back style aluminum flooring you could save considerable weight, with fantastic usability.
Length of the trailer deck
Don’t make the trailer to long, it’s too easy to go “Well I’m building it, let’s go BIG”. Just make it long enough for your needs, to keep the weight down and maneuverability.
What are you going to tow? Remember you still need to be mindful of your GCM.
The quad is 1,200mm wide and a side by side is about 2,500mm (not including tray over hang). If I wanted to fit 2 quads and a side by side this should fit on 4,900mm. This is getting very long though and I wouldn’t consider going much past this.
If you just want 3 quads on, you only need 3,600mm etc. I think for 3 quads would be the smallest I would consider building.
Be mindful of your axle placement, there are lots of camper trailers out there with single axles placed to far back and this puts massive draw bar weight on your vehicle. Draw bar weight is included in your GVM and excessive weight ruins the ride handling. At www.trailersauce.co.nz they recommend 75mm rear of centre.
Width of the trailer deck
The width of the trailer should be similar to you tray somewhere between 1,800 – 2,000mm – as the wheel track really determines the width.
Previously we spoke about your hunting vehicle weight and determined that the best option was to use a trailer to keep you legal. This should help you avoid overloading your hunting vehicle. So lets look at why this is the best option.
What is GCM?
GCM is Gross Combined Mass, that is the maximum weight the vehicle manufacturer has allowed. That is the total weight of the vehicle, trailer and all the contents. This is one of the reasons the Ford Ranger is a favourite amongst caravaners, because of it high GCM.
Hunting vehicle and trailer weight example
If we use our example of the 2013 Toyota Hilux dual cab manual turbo diesel from the hunting vehicle weight article, it has a GCM of 5,210kg (sourced from redbook.com.au).
Previously the maximum weight we could carry was 990kg (including occupants and everything) with out a trailer.
Lets say the average dual axle steel trailer with brakes weighs 650kg (guestimate based on approximate weights sourced from www.trailersauce.co.nz). We will not talk about the trailer GVM (maximum total trailer weight) to keep it simple.
GCM Table
weight
quantity
Sub-total
Hilux
1720
1
1,720
Tray
250
1
250
Side steps
15
2
30
Bullbar
75
1
75
towbar
40
1
40
Under tray tool box
7
2
14
winch
27
1
27
recovery gear
20
1
20
Water
20
1
20
Long range tank
40
1
40
Air compressor
10
1
10
Bash plates
30
1
30
spotties
2
2
4
Occupants
85
2
170
Dog cage
40
1
40
Dogs
40
2
80
Fridge
40
1
40
Firearms
5
4
20
Ammo
50
1
50
Quads
300
1
300
Unleaded
15
2
30
Cooking gear
40
1
40
Sleeping gear
30
1
30
Total
3,080
Hilux GCM
5,210
Trailer
650
Balance
1,480
So straight away you can see you have an extra 1,480kg of carrying capacity, simply by towing a 650kg trailer.
Lets put that in perspective. Let’s add 2 more occupants and 2 more quads and see how much spare weight we have in a hunting vehicle and trailer weight combo.
GCM Table 2
weight
quantity
Sub-total
Hilux GCM
5,210
Hilux and load
3,080
Trailer
650
Occupants
85
2
170
Quads
300
2
600
Balance
710kg
Instead of being over weight by 370kg like in the Hunting vehicle weight GVM article with just a hunting ute, we now have 2 more hunters and 2 more quads and still room for 710kg of heaps of other hunting gear!
As you can see the advantages of taking a trailer on a hunting trip is significant. In the past I’ve personally towed a boat just to move the weight load off the tray (we didn’t even think about actually using the boat).
The boys from www.hogsdogsquads.com.au have a custom built trailer purely for the purpose of hauling quads for massive hunts up in the Cape. Check out their YouTube video below for a quick look at the setup they have created:
Towing a hunting trailer
For those of you who have never had a trailer before and are concerned about the difficulties of it don’t be. Normal driving with a trailer is very easy. There is only one thing to remember: that you have a trailer on when changing lanes/overtaking.
If your trailer is wider than the tow vehicle, just check the mirrors to make your the wheels are in you lane or not in the gutter. I find it help full to find a spot on the bull-bar to keep aligned to the centre stripe on the road.
Reversing a trailer is something that takes practice. Just take your time and get someone to make sure you don’t hit anything including the trailer on the tray of the ute. Once you learn how the mechanics of reversing a trailer works it’s a breeze.
Dual axle trailers are actually much easier to reverse than single axle trailers, mostly because of the increased length. So don’t be scared to go big straight away.
Conclusion
Get your self a hunting vehicle and trailer setup, stay legal, stay safe, take more mod cons and really be able to enjoy your trip.
But remember shift all the weight to the trailer. The towball weight is part of you GVM. If your not careful you will still be over your GVM but under your GCM and therefore not legal.
I’m Stu from Sydney and what got me into hunting was that my father had a company called High Country Safaris (approx 1969 to 1974) that catered for hunters, fisherman and outdoor enthusiasts. His main clientele were Americans on R&R from Vietnam. I wasn’t even a teenager so I was heavily influenced by what Dad was doing. I suppose it was a natural thing to start hunting myself.
I think my favourite thing to hunt is the African Cape Buffalo. I have only shot one and I have it on the wall at my sisters place. However, I never tire from hunting pigs especially an old crusty boar!
Hunting techniques
Normally we only hunt in the daytime (we rarely go spotlighting). However, as a young boy I went out with Dad plenty of times after foxes as they were good money in the 70’s.
I like to hunt on foot by stalking through the bush. But we use a quad often when a lot of country needs to be covered. I like to get dropped off on the quad then do a walk and get picked up so I don’t have to walk out and back. On the properties we hunt this is very successful as you can see in my YouTube videos (link at bottom of post).
That’s the other thing while I think about it. I use a Sony Action Cam and it sits on the side of my head on a headband giving the first person shooter angle, which is pretty cool I must say! If I see pigs or a boar my first thought is to turn on the camera and then forget about it until the action is over.
Having said that I am aware that the camera is filming and try to keep as steady as possible, as the end product is to watch a nice steady stalk and not a lot of unstable jerky movements.
In the past I used to get as close as possible then turn the camera on. This often meant missing out on the action as the pig/s took flight with time only to shoot and not video.
Kayaking for boars
Generally I take a kayak for backup, as an alternative to the actual hunt (as we rip around on quads or stalk through the bush as a general rule). However if it’s summer, when we get back and others want to while away the hotter parts of the day in the shade. I go into predator mode and head down to the water and kayak for boars during the hottest time of the day.
It is very productive often shooting pigs within a couple of hundred metres from starting my paddle. Because pigs come into water all the time I can paddle up and down a water course and see pigs constantly! Late arvo is also very productive as the old crafty boars come into water late.
I have thought about spotlighting along the water at night. But as everyone knows it would be very eerie with possible zombies about ; )
I paddle slow and steady and try to keep to one side of the waterway so that I don’t stand out too much. When I am closing in on a boar, it depends on the cover or shade leading up to him. If he is wallowed facing me I like to close the gap from the other bank keeping to the shadows or overhanging branches. If there is more than one pig, I picture what will happen and I foresee a cunning plan. I.e. I will shoot one outright, then another on the run as it decamps the scene often making for a memorable action clip.
The thing about kayaking for boars is that your hunting area is reduced to the course of the waterway. However this also means that you have 2x hunting areas to scan. The left and the right bank. Often either side of a waterway will have completely different country. If it is thick then I often get out and push into the bush a few hundred metres looking for pigs in their hideouts.
If there is a constant wind direction I will paddle into the wind. However, if there is no option but to paddle with the wind I will fly up to the end or turn around point then take my time coming back with the wind in my face. Having said that the wind can change constantly along a waterway so if I feel the wind on my neck then I stop and often get out and have a walk around until the wind is back in my favour again.
It is very important to paddle slow and steady. Listen to the sounds up on the bank. Constantly look along the bank where the water meets it especially around low branches or logs coming up the bank. I have had boars jump up after I have past them only to notice that I missed seeing a recess or something like a tussock of grass hiding a wallowing boar.
As I round a bend it opens up new areas, I tend to either use binos or my rifle scope to do an initial scan of the banks way up front. If I see a boar and I have the rifle I still like to get as close as possible within reason. I.e. if there is a high bank I will often have time to drop the paddle and shoot if I am sighted prior to me getting into position.
I have shot a pig on one bank and then noticed another jump up on the opposite side! If there is one there are others. Don’t fall into the trap of focusing too much on the pig way down the waterway as you will pass the close ones.
Sometimes I will get out of the kayak and stalk up on a boar on the bank, especially if the wind is going toward him as I want my scent to go up the bank. This is a ‘spot and stalk’ method and all I do is walk off about 30 metres then along paralleling the bank until I reckon I am in line then head back to the bank. Be prepared to cop a charge as if you approach a boar from the top of the bank his only exit is straight up through you!
Kayaking for boars down a western waterway is very relaxing with the smell of the bush, red river gums, birds, goannas and obviously pigs. It is a different way to enjoy the outdoors and see a property that you may have hunted for many years but from a different perspective.
I don’t really participate in any non-hunting related shooting activities, but I did have had a crack at skeet shooting for a while many years ago.
Equipment
My firearm of choice is a 30-06 bolt-action Ruger MK II topped off with a Burris Full Field II. I like to sight my scope in at 30 metres which is approx where the path of the bullet passes the line of sight. This allows a precise group and the bullet (depending on the weight) to be spot on again at 200m as it comes back down from the trajectory or culminating point. I use this set up mainly for pigs. Generally most shots are at running targets and less than 100m. However, I have my fare share of extremely close and extremely long shots.
Another good firearm is a 12ga Adler A110 lever-action shotgun. Perfect for pigs. I use a full choke with 00SGs (9 pellets) or SSGs (18 pellets).
I was given a a 30/30 lever-action Winchester from Dad Christmas of 1976. So it has seen a lot of service. It’s loaded with 170gr silver tip expansions and devastating on pigs.
I’ll reload when I have 100 spent cases so then it is simple to buy 100 projectiles, 100 primers and a kilo of powder and I crank out another batch.
Kayak
I use an old Australis white water kayak. However, I reckon the sit on top type with a moulded seats are the go. Mine actually doesn’t have a rudder which is great for a fast turning. But without the rudder it is shocking when I have both hands on the rifle, as it will turn with the wind, so I am constantly correcting it which adds to the difficulty I suppose, haha.
Equipement
I always take water, spare ammo and a phone or radio just in case I need assistance or get injured. If you have mobile access then phones are great as you can send pics to those in camp of your success haha.
I do have a dog however, it’s a lab and it’s a city slicker dog.
Vehicle and setup
I actually don’t have a hunting vehicle! I actually have an old Toyota corolla hatch, haha. We do however have a Kia Sportage but it is only front wheel drive, but it does have roof racks for the kayak.
I do want to get a second hand 4×4 one day. But access to our current property is sealed roads and a dirt driveway to the homestead. If it is wet then we camp nearer to the homestead. However, my hunting buddy has a 4×4 ute so sometimes we meet up at the homestead and load all the stuff together and push into the interior of the property.
My mate has a quad bike so I am restricted to either sitting on the back or using it if he want to walk.
I have flown across the world to hunt, however I think the furtherest I have driven is approx 1,000km.
Camp setup
Generally we setup in the shearers quarters or camp setup/swag. My mate usually brings all the cooking stuff so that is sorted, which is great!
Food is usually fresh venison from past deer hunts and good cuts of beef.
Culture
I hunt for pest control, mainly pigs but I am a past trophy hunter having hunted in Africa and New Zealand.
Hunting is a passion that is difficult to put into words. I enjoy the outdoors clear starry nights and a good camp fire. I like the smells and sounds of the bush. Just great to revisit our primal past. One can learn no harm from the hills. If I am to bow my head let it be from a lofty mountain range.
If I had to explain hunting to someone that has never hunted before, I tell them that they are actually a fellow hunter but their flame does not flicker as much as mine. We are all from primal beginnings and city folk/non-hunters still have that flame inside as they all do something toward hunting like going shopping or hunting for a street address or enjoying the taste of home grown vegies etc.
The benefits hunting and shooting in my mind as a modern hunter is, it does wonders to get out of the office or city and just explore what the outskirts; state; country or world has to offer. Hunting is open ended in that it allows the hunter to fall as deep into it as they dare. Some hunters only ever plink rabbits but love the rolling hills in which their quarry lives. Whereas other hunters travel to places only hunters will go like East Equatorial Africa hunting Bongo or the Brookes Range in Alaska after Mt Goat etc.
What’s got me hooked on hunting is that every human is born with a flicker of primal instinct to survive. In days gone by everyone was hunting or gathering. I grew up in a fishing, hunting and outdoors family so it is who I am and always will be. I suppose if Dad was a boat builder I would own a yacht.
My favourite part about going out bush is to be away from the constant humdrum of modern society.
Politics
My thoughts on firearm ownership in Australia is that we have state and territory laws that are so different from each other which is a bit stupid.
What I’d like to see changed is that there was talk of a national firearms license so lets do it as it would make things so much easier not only for hunters and shooters but also the police and registration.
I will vote for a pro-gun political party when it comes election time, the Shooters, Fishes and Farmers party. As they seem to be level headed and are all about looking after the hunter/shooting enthusiast.
If hunters and shooters want to further protect firearm ownership in Australia they just need to be responsible with the privilege of owning firearms and being able to go out and hunt.
Story
So many hunting stories but I reckon the one that sticks in my head for life is my Cape Buff hunt. It was in 1985 and I was living in Townsville North Qld while working in the army. I flew to Sydney and hooked up with Dad and another mate. We flew to Perth then direct to Harare, Zimbabwe. We hunted plains game for 7 days and we all took several species each including; Greater Kudu, Impala, Bushback just to name a few. During this hunt we met a guide who was so impressed with us Aussie hunters that he offered us to accompany him to the Zambezi Valley to hunt big game. Obviously we accepted so off we went.
I hunted Cape Buff for approx 4 days and had my heart set on a minimum 40 inch spread which is the trophy standard apparently. On the 4th day we found a herd of approx 200 buff so we moved in down wind allowing the buff to close the gap toward us as they fed. We picked out a good buff and just needed it to present for a good shot. I was using an open sighted (express sights) 458 loaded with 500gr solids. As the buff were slowly getting closer the others were slowly enveloping us and what made it worse was that there were white egrets on some of the closer animals and they were looking straight at us! Something was going to happen very soon.
Eventually the buff that we selected turned broadside on and my guide said shoot! At approx 30m I held the sight low and behind the shoulder aiming for the heart. When I fired all hell broke loose, with animals retreating, birds flying and adrenaline flowing freely. The guide said that he saw dust kick up past the buff and thought I went over the beast! I could not believe it! After inspecting the area for sign of a hit I was down on myself as there was no blood and the animal looked OK when it ran off!
We decided to try again and followed the herd and did a similar stalk to get in close and again in front of the herd. This time a buff was chosen and we let it come to approx 10m! I fired and then jumped up and reloaded and fired again as it was trotting away. At the shot the buff cartwheeled and went down. The guide told me to reload and we cautiously moved up on our quarry.
One of the trackers ensured that the animal was dead then became very excited. He grabbed me and pointed to the underside brisket just behind the front legs. There was a trench that looked like a red hot poker had branded the beast, however, it was my first shot that missed! This was the same buff! I was so happy that I had actually caught up with the one I missed but also happy that I creased the animal enough to leave a tell tale mark and that I didn’t go over the top but missed the vitals by inches.
This was my last animal taken on the trip and the Head sits above the pool table at my sisters place.
Conclusion
Appreciate the responsibility that having a shooters license holds. It only takes one idiot or a lapse of professionalism and it can bring down a state full of responsible shooters.
We have been given the privilege to hunt so a respect of the animal hunted is a must. Take the time if available to place the shot. If the shot doesn’t present itself then be happy to lift the bolt and let the quarry disappear. I take a bottle of port into camp for the sole purpose to toast those pigs that got away during the days hunt.