As of the 1st of July 2018 Gross Combined Mass (GCM) upgrades on new vehicles by Second Stage Manufacturers (SSM) will no longer be allowed. Even if your not buying a new vehicle to do a GCM upgrade, as a hunter/camper there is a high chance it will affect you.
Essentially what was happening was Caravaners were buying brand new vehicles. Then upgrading the GCM, by having the vehicle’s suspension, brakes and chassis modified by an aftermarket company. This could then be mod plated by an engineer.
I recently had the opportunity to do an interview with Shauno from 4WD Action at the 4WD Supacentre Parkinson open night. We discussed the implications of the changes:
How does this affect you?
As with any changes to laws along with that comes administering those laws. That’s to say, they will police them.
This doesn’t mean they will only target Caravaners either. They will set-up a weight station (as they already do occasionally) and weigh most vehicles that come along the road. Regardless of whether your towing a trailer or not they will weigh your vehicle.
So it’s important that you understand your Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) limits and your GCM limits. As discussed previously it’s very easy to go over your GVM, once you start modifying your vehicle with accessories.
Hilux with bullbar, brush bars, side steps, aluminum tray, long range tank, bash plates etc.
I recently went to the dump with my 2013 Toyota Hilux dual cab turbo diesel and weighed in at 2.44 ton. My GVM is 2.71 ton which means I’ve only got 270kg spare, not much at all.
What happens if your over?
If you get caught over GCM/GVM in Queensland you’ll receive a hefty fine and sent home.
I know of two people that were at the beginning of there Cape York trip from NSW with their campervans and both were sent home and received approximately $600 each in fines. They were to return home immediately.
What a way to ruin a holiday or a good hunt.
GCM upgrade law changes conclusion
Everything you add to your vehicle eats into your GVM. If your not paying attention you will quickly go over your GVM.
If your going to be loading up your ute or taking a quad, don’t risk it. Just get a trailer and be done with it. We all know someone with at least a small box trailer.
Don’t be caught out with the “she’ll be right” attitude, because it could easily ruin a good hunt. A lot of hunters plan massive trips that are only once a year. Don’t make your next trip bi-annual!
There are 2 major engine mods recommended for turbo diesels; oil catch can and secondary diesel filters. Some will argue for a diesel pre-filter and others will argue for a diesel post-filter. We take a quick look at the difference between diesel pre-filters and post-filters. Then; why or when you should install one on your turbo diesel 4WD.
Secondary fuel filters
The purpose of a secondary filter is to remove more contaminates from your fuel system prior to the diesel going through the injectors. Modern common rail injectors have ultra fine tolerances. These can easily be clogged and cost thousands to replace.
You will read tons of articles telling you not to buy a 2005 to 2009 Toyota Hilux because of “known” injector issues. However the reality this was not exclusively a Hilux issue. Toyota Hilux had the largest market share of 4×4 utes during that period of time. Therefore, more vehicles affected by the issue in general. Talk to any mechanic that services multiple makes of utes and they will tell you they have repaired all brands with injector issues.
One of the solutions to the issue was to install a secondary fuel filter. This removes a greater amount of contaminants from the system. It does this by adding a second fuel filter to the system. But removes different sized particles to the factory system.
Another benefit of a secondary diesel filter is it removes the water from the fuel into a visible bowl. This doubles up with the factory filter that also removes water. But the factory filter only has a sensor on the dash and no visible water level.
Why should you install one?
If you have a new turbo diesel that’s serviced regularly and use a reliable fuel station that supplies clean good diesel than you probably don’t need one.
If however you travel heaps and go to remote servos that look dodgy as, then you probably do. Fuel stations with old tanks are of course more likely to have contaminates. Fuel stations using unreliable fuel sources are more likely to have contaminates.
Tandem trailer with 4×4 off-road trailer wheels
The other scenario is if your using jerrycans. Anyone transporting and using fuel containers are putting themselves at risk. As they increase the chance of introducing contaminates into their diesel. It doesn’t matter how careful you are something can always goes wrong. Dropping the end of the siphoning hose in the dirt. Dirt falling off the lid into the fuel container. Dropping the fuel container cap. The fuel container slips from your hands. Of course there is always that one mate. The guy that has to help but he is nothing but a pain in the neck…
Fuel cans are great and when your travelling that far, you cant avoid them. Should you be scared of them? No way, this is why we have fuel filters and water separators in our vehicles. But this is exactly why you should have a secondary filter for these “just in case” reasons.
Secondary fuel filters are relatively cheap for the protection they provide. If you go out west get one!
Adding a trailer will increase fuel consumption
Fuel consumption
If your loading up your vehicle or towing your going to use a lot more diesel. Therefore a lot more fuel passes through the filter for the same distance.
With my Hilux I typically get 70% of the distance under full load than I do unloaded. This means that the filter is filtering 50% more diesel than normal. If you did this for 10,000km, you have effectively put your filtration system through 15,000km equivalent of fuel (I’m not going to bore you with the mathematical details). So how do you ensure your filter is still up to the task without having to service it sooner?
Factory Toyota Hilux filter by Denso 4-5 microns
Factory diesel filter
On a Toyota Hilux KUN26R (2009-2015) the factory filter is approximately 4-5 microns. Its manufactured by Denso who also make the factory injectors.
One would safely assume that the factory filter would filter the diesel enough for the factory injectors. So there would never to be an issue if regular maintenance is carried out.
Diesel post-filter
The post-filter is a secondary filter that is fitted after the factor filter (between the factory filter and injectors). Post-filters are a finer filter than the factory filter generally 2 micron vs factory 5 micron.
There are videos on YouTube proving that a 2 micron filter can flow more than enough to not disrupt your fuel system. It “proves” this by showing the amount of diesel returning to the tank and the vacuum levels.
Post-filter test conditions are “perfect” and not “on-road” testing over thousands of kilometers with varying fuel sources
I have an issue with these tests, because they are conducted in a “perfect” scenario; clean fuel and new filters. Not with fuel from a contaminated source, which is the whole point of a secondary filtration system.
What happens at 9,000km (after the last service)? After filling up at several dodgy fuel stations under full load (using 50% more fuel), when the filters are close to needing replacement? Could the 2 micron filter could start to clog and not allow enough diesel to pass through the system?
What’s the purpose of filtering to 2 microns if the system can handle up to 5 microns? I feel your unnecessarily putting your fuel system at risk. By refining the fuel to a level beyond necessary.
Using a post-filter as a secondary filter also means the factory filter is doing all the primary water separation. But the factory filter does not have a visible water catch bowl unlike a secondary filter. So you are relying on the vehicle fuel sensors to report the water level to you (after it’s to high).
The factory filter contains sensors that go to the computer and light up the dash. By installing equipment between the factory filter and injectors, there is a chance you can upset the factory settings. This could upset the system warnings and ruin your engine.
Provent diesel pre-filter kit installed in a Toyota Hilux
Diesel pre-filter
A diesel pre-filter is a filter that is between your fuel tank and factory fuel filter. Pre-filters are a courser filter than the factory filter. Generally a 30 micron pre-filter vs 5 micron factory filter. It also separates the water from the diesel prior to getting to the factory filter.
The diesel pre-filter removes any large particles before they hit your factory filter. This means your factory filter is only filtering particles between 30 and 5 microns, thus removing a load off the factory filtration system.
When the vehicle is under load or heavy towing and your consuming the 50% extra fuel. By using a secondary diesel pre-filter, this should extend the life span of the factory filter. Especially during these scenarios (you should still replace the filters as per the factory recommendations).
By using a pre-filter as the secondary filter also allows the pre-filter to do the primary water separation. This is great as the diesel pre-filter has a clear bowl. So you can see when water is collected. Then you can empty it as soon as possible, before it causes an issue.
Is a diesel pre-filter a DIY job?
Most definitely, the diesel pre-filter kits from Direction Plus are extremely easy to install. If you can install an oil catch can, you can install the secondary diesel pre-filter. I recently installed under tray tool boxes and this was a much more difficult task.
Check the video below to see how simple the install is:
Diesel pre-filter conclusion
If your taking your vehicle to remote areas with unreliable fuel sources. Maybe your using jerrycans to supplement your fuel requirements. Are you loading your vehicle to maximum GVM or towing, causing an increase in fuel consumption? Then you need a secondary filtration system.
I chose a secondary Direction Plus diesel pre-filter kit because of the below:
They remove the large contaminates allowing the factory filter to filter finer particles for longer (essentially halving the work of the factory filter).
Diesel pre-filters do the primary water separation and use a clear bowl for easy identification.
They are fitted before the ECU sensors, allowing engine warnings to operate as per normal.
They allow fitting of a secondary battery.
Disclaimer:
Although I am affiliated with Direction Plus, my decision to use their products was based on my own independent research. I had committed to purchasing their products before they assisted me with this project.
Why should you install an oil catch can to your Turbo Diesel 4×4?
Installing an oil catch can on your Turbo Diesel is a must. We discuss why you should do it and show how simple it is to install.
Oil vapors
Engines have a PCV valve that vents blow-by gas from crank case to the rocker. The rocker cover is also vented to the intake system of the vehicle. This forces oil vapor into the intake system. Turbos create more pressure and therefore more oil vapor.
Classic oil leak from oil vapors on turbo air outlet
A tell tail of this is oil leaking from the under side of rubber hose on the turbo.
This was not much of a problem in the past, but now with modern emission controls things have changed.
EGR
Part of the emission controls is the EGR – exhaust gas re-circulation. The EGR recirculates some of the exhaust gas back into the intake. This dilutes the amount of oxygen with inert gases, to help reduce combustion heat in the cylinders.
Exhaust gases contain carbons and soot, which on their own don’t do much.
Oil vapors + Exhaust gas
The problem occurs where the oil vapor mix with the exhaust gas. This causes slug and gunk to build up on the intake of your turbo diesel, until the point the engine is choked.
By separating the oil from the intake the exhaust gas can pass through dry. Leaving your intake operating at maximum flow and maximum power.
Blocking off an EGR valve is illegal, although there are many that would consider doing this as well. If you crash your truck whilst towing all your gear and have an accident you may risk jeopardise your insurance claim.
Catch can kit
The catch can filters out the oil vapors from the vent allowing clean air to pass through to the intake system.
After a lot of research I ended up purchasing a Direction-Plus ProVent Catch Can Kit from Berrima Diesel (I am not affiliated with Berrima Diesel).
I considered the ProVent Catch Can Kit the most comprehensive and highest quality. It is also the kit sold by leading diesel shops and repairs.
The kit is complete and easy enough for any one that likes to get there hands dirty to install.
I installed my catch can with relative ease and it was probably done in about 45 mins (I was videoing so it did actually take longer). The hardest part was getting the hose clamps over the barbs after installing the hose. Highly recommend this install for any DIYer.
Below is the YouTube video I made whilst installing mine on a 2013 Toyota Hilux:
Here is my step by step guide on installing the Direction-Plus ProVent Catch Can kit to a 2013 Turbo Diesel Toyota Hilux.
ProVent catch can pre-assembled for fitting to Toyota Hilux turbo diesel
Attach the stainless steel bracket to the catch can, ensuring the hole in the catch can lines up with the pipe on the bracket.
Pre-install the hose clamps on the 12mm hose using pliers (put them about 300mm down the hose on both ends).
Attach the hose to the catch can
Attach the hose to the drip feed (apply some oil to the drip feed barb to make insertion easier)
Fit the hose clamps just past the barbs using pliers
Mount the catch can to the existing fixed nuts on the engine bay guard
Intall the pre-assembled catch can to the inside of the guard using the existing fixed nuts.
Remove the bolt for the fixed hose from the rocker cover to air intake
Remove the bolt from the fixed hose on the pipe (from the rocker cover to the air intake pipe).
Remove the fixed pipe.
Cover the pipe going into the turbo to stop debris entering the turbo whilst working.
Remove the rubber hose and clamp from the rocker cover
Remove the rubber hose from the rocker cover.
Pre-fit the hose clamps to the 16mm hose.
Fit the 16mm hose to the stainless steel pipe on the catch can bracket to the rocker cover.
Fit the 16mm hose to the rocker cover (you may need to apply some oil to the hose the allow the hose clamp to slide over the barb on the rocker cover)
Attach the supplied reducer to the original rubber hose still mounted to the turbo air intake and fit the 19mm hose from the catch can to it
Pre-fit the hose clamps onto the 19mm hose
Install the 19mm hose onto the catch can
Pre-fit the hose clamp onto the rubber hose on the turbo
Whilst holding the hose clamp open on the pre-fitted to the turbo hose insert the 16mm-19mm hose reducer.
Fit the 19mm hose to the reducer.
Route the hose down the engine bay avoiding brake lines, steering mechanisms and exhaust pipes
Route the drip hose along the firewall avoiding contact with; suspensions components, steering components, exhaust pipes and brake lines.
Catch can drain hose zip tied to firewall and leading down to chassis rail
Zip tie the drain hose down were possible
Installed ProVent catch can in Toyota Hilux turbo diesel engine bay
Job done!
Catch can maintenance
Don’t forget to ensure the drip valve is always closed, dripping oil on the road is illegal!
Empty your catch can during your next service and change the catch can oil filter when required.
What is the perfect hunting trailer design? Remember it comes down to; your purpose of use. Because our core purpose is to ensure you make your clear about your requirements and it’s reliable and easy to bush repair.
Because lets face it, we’re out in the bush, 1,000km from the major cities and you probably don’t want to run into trouble. The local mechanics don’t have every single part on the shelf (an unrealistic expectation). We just want to be able to have a good time and get home, without spending a million bucks on repairs.
So this article is a follow on from GVM and GCM, keeping your hunting vehicle legal and safe, whilst transporting everything you need.
Hogs Dogs and Quads trailer
Hunting trailer topics
So these are the topics we are covering for a hunting trailer design:
It’s very easy to let people talk you into over-engineering things, especially if you haven’t had much experience with something. Go to your local service station that does trailer hire and you’ll see they are all the same simple design.
Like anything, maintenance is your friend. Some pre-trip checks can save you a lot of heart ache. But given the goal is reliability, ease of repair and suitability for use. For my hunting needs the perfect hunting trailer would have:
2,000kg load limit
Aluminum deck, 4,900mm x 1,900mm
Tandem axles
Roller rocker springs
Mechanical disc brakes
Over-ride 50mm ball coupling
Flatbed trailer
Falcon rims with light truck tyres
Powder coated, fuel container rack, under tray tool boxes
Ripper of a trailer spotted on Brisbane high way, dual axle, aluminum bed and off-road tyres
Make your trailer to suit your needs and use this as a guide to assist your designs.
Hunting trailer links
I haven’t provided information on steel dimensions or draw-bar lengths as there are to many variables. Please speak to a professional in regards to this.
To see why I decided on the above items read the below posts:
For trailer load limit as with our 2 other articles GVM and GCM, let’s once again look at 2013 Hilux Turbo diesel manual dual cab. The Hilux has a maximum GCM of 5,210kg and a maximum GVM of 2,710kg (sourced from redbook.com.au). This means I can legally tow a 2,500kg GTM (Gross Trailer Mass) trailer behind my hunting rig (assuming the ute is packed to the max including ball weight).
So do I just make a hunting trailer that has the largest trailer load limit I can tow?
Well just like vehicles, there are ADRs (Australian Design Rules) that apply to the legal requirements of trailers.
In Australia different trailer load limits have different requirements:
Up to 750kg GTM does not require brakes
750kg to 2,000kg GTM must have brakes on at least one axle and they can be over-ride type
Over 2,000kg GTM all wheels must have electric or power assisted hydraulic brakes (driver controlled hand or foot), a tearaway brake system is also required.
Basically once you go over 2,000kg GTM you must have electronic brakes and a tear-away system. This means your vehicle must be fitted with an electric brake controller and you need a battery on board your trailer.
Redarc in car electronic trailer brake controller unit
Electronic brake controller for trailers
Once you put an electric brakes on the trailer, only vehicles with electronic brake controllers can tow the trailer. Well none of my hunting mates have electronic brake controllers. So Instantly no one can legally assist me in towing and I can’t lend the trailer or borrow their vehicle for a hunting trip.
Trailer battery
Might as well add $90 to your registration costs of the trailer. A friend of mine works in a caravan yard. He says that they battery is a guaranteed returning customer. Every year they will be bcak for a new battery because they don’t last with little to no use.
Trailer load limit recommendation
If you have 2x 320kg quads and a 500kg side by side that’s a total weight on 1,140kg. If your trailer weighed 650kg (that would be an extremely heavy trailer) that would leave you about another 210kg for other stuff. For me it would be difficult to justify an extra 500kg carrying capacity at the cost of a battery and electronic brake controller.
To avoid the need for electronic brakes, an electronic brake controller and a trailer battery I would recommend limiting your hunting trailer load limit to 2,000kg. You can use the hunting trailer across more vehicles with less maintenance and less headaches.
